The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical StudiesHume, Martin A. S. (Martin Andrew Sharp)
Philosophy
The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical Studies
Hume, Martin A. S. (Martin Andrew Sharp)
Armada, 1588; Europe -- History -- 1517-1648; Europe -- History -- 17th century
He came to his new country with a whole host of Burgundian, Flemish,
and German nobles, whose taste for finery had never been checked; and
whatever decrees Charles might issue for the dress of his people, he
and his Court were the first to {223} disregard the letter and spirit
of his precepts. It is not to be wondered at, therefore, that they
were not obeyed for long together by any one else. The initiative,
moreover, did not come from the King or his courtiers, but from the
Cortes of Castile, who were naturally swayed entirely by Spanish ideas,
of which Charles had at this time, boy as he was, but little knowledge
or sympathy. This was so clearly recognised that when he was about to
leave Corunna in 1520 to assume the imperial crown, the Cortes held
there petitioned him at least to order that the sumptuary laws with
regard to silks, brocades, gold embroideries, and gold and silver lace,
should be strictly enforced during his absence from Spain, since they
saw that, with such a Court as his, they would not be enforced in his
presence. But the example of the Court had struck too deeply, and the
fury for splendour had now really taken hold of the Spaniards, who in
their ages of struggle had been so simple and homely.
In the pragmatic of 1537 it is said that during the Emperor's absence
the use of brocades, silks, and precious embroideries had increased
more than ever, and they are absolutely prohibited, and the rigid law
of 1498 again repeated. The preamble of the decree of 1537 says that
this law against gold embroidery was generally evaded by making the
gold lace and devices separately and then stitching them on to the
cloth, which cost much more even than embroidery would have done; and
the making of such adornments was consequently prohibited altogether.
Only nine years afterwards, in 1548, the Cortes of Valladolid made a
presentment to the Emperor saying that things {224} were worse than
ever, and the cost of clothes had been increased instead of decreased
by the ingenuity of tailors, who had taken to the plan of cutting out
the most elaborate patterns of coloured cloth with fine scissors and
sewing them on to the cloth garments, almost covering the latter with
delicate lace-like snippet work of applied cloth. In face of this
abuse the Cortes prayed the Emperor to forbid the use of any and every
sort of trimming, lace, or adornment on the garments, both of men and
women, which might give an excuse for the wicked tailors to charge
extravagant prices. Charles V. thought this too sweeping, but in 1552
he issued a "pragmatic" prohibiting the applied snippet work, and also
the use or manufacture of gold and silver lace and ornaments, the
wearing and making of velvets, silks, and satins being also rigidly
limited. Spain, flooded with the precious metals from the Indies,
richer perhaps in actual bullion than ever a country was before or
since, with home-grown silk in abundance, and the most deft and
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