The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical StudiesHume, Martin A. S. (Martin Andrew Sharp)
Philosophy
The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical Studies
Hume, Martin A. S. (Martin Andrew Sharp)
Armada, 1588; Europe -- History -- 1517-1648; Europe -- History -- 17th century
To begin with, the following sweeping order is given: No one of
whatever rank, except the King and his children, shall wear any sort of
brocade or cloth of gold or silver, or stuff shot with gold or silver,
or silk in which metal is woven. No cord, gimp, ornamental stitching
or quilting, either of silk or metal, is to be permitted, excepting on
religious vestments and uniforms, and no precious stones or pearls are
to be worn on housings or accoutrements in any shape. There is an
absolute prohibition of the employment of lute-string, twist, ruchings,
flat braid, cording, chainlets, crewels, cross-stitching,
through-stitching, tangle trimming, puffs, and any sort of bead or
steel trimmings; and the following dress is alone prescribed: The cape
or other over-garment may be {240} of any sort of silk with stripes, on
each edge of which may be an ornamental stitching. Surcoats and
ropillas (a sort of half-tight over-jacket with double sleeves, the
outer ones hanging loose from the shoulder) may be also of silk and
trimmed in the same way, and, if desired, a piping of another sort of
silk, but not the same, may be put between the stripes. The inside of
the capes may have similar stripes of silk, satin, or taffety, but not
velvet. Shoulder capes may be made of velvet, and the hoods of
riding-cloaks or rain-capes may be lined with the same. Silk gimp and
frogs may be sewn on to duffel cloaks, &c. The trunks may be worn of
any kind of silk, and each slashing may be edged with a velvet or silk
piping and an "eyelash" border. If the slashing is a wide one this
edging may be worn on both sides of it, but if otherwise only on one
side. The slashings may be lined with taffety. Silk gimp or braid of
any sort may be worn on the trunks excepting lutestrings or crewels.
Galligaskins may also be made of silk, but with no trimming but a row
of gimp on each side and at the opening. Dressing-gowns for women and
men may be of any material or fashion, so long as gold or silver is not
used. Doublets, ropillas, or trunks made of satin may be ornamented by
silk stitching of any colour, but on no account may the stuff be
pinked, ravelled, or fringed. The rules generally apply to women as
well as men, but the former are allowed to wear jackets of light cloth
of gold or silver, which may be trimmed with a braid of the same over
the seams, and the whole jacket may be covered with "whirligigs" or
scrolls of gold or silver, so long as there is no working in the stuff
{241} itself. The frills and flounces of these garments may also be
ornamented in the same fashion. Hats, belts, baldricks, &c., were all
treated in the same way; gold or silver gimp, braid, and lace were
allowed to be sewn on, but not embroidered or woven in, the texture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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