The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical StudiesHume, Martin A. S. (Martin Andrew Sharp)
Philosophy
The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical Studies
Hume, Martin A. S. (Martin Andrew Sharp)
Armada, 1588; Europe -- History -- 1517-1648; Europe -- History -- 17th century
A rather curious point in this decree of 1600 is the distinction in it
of different classes of citizens. Thus women of known evil life were
allowed to wear what they liked inside the houses, but were to conform
to the law in the streets; pages might dress in silk jackets, coats,
trunks, and caps, but their capes were to be of cloth or frieze; no
lackeys were to have silken clothes or velvet scabbards, but they were
allowed to wear taffety caps. The punishments for the breaking the
orders seem severe but unequal. Offending wearers were to lose the
peccant garment and pay a sum equal to its value for pious uses, but
tradesmen who made or sold the goods were to be condemned to four
years' exile and a fine of twenty maravedis for a first offence, double
the punishment for a second, and the pillory and ten years' exile from
Spain for a third. All this sounds very severe, but there were plenty
of ways out of it. For instance, garments already made might be worn
for four years by men and six by women, although they were not in
accordance with the law. This pragmatic was proclaimed with the usual
ceremony by one of the Alcaldes de Casa y Corte with the sound of drum
and trumpet in the High Street of Madrid on the 8th of June, 1600. The
month must have been a busy one for the dignified officials in
question; for during the first fortnight of it decrees regulating
almost every conceivable subject were issued. The {242} rigid and
unpopular decree about courtesy titles was superseded, and nearly
everybody of position might now be called Señoria. No gold or silver
in any form was to be used in furniture or household decoration, "as
the King is shocked at the waste of the estates of his subjects in such
superfluities, and considers it high time that the money were employed
in useful and necessary things." Velvet or silk might be employed in
upholstery, but no gold or silver except a gold fringe on the edges.
The same rule applied to the lining of carriages and litters, but no
silk was to be used on the outside of vehicles.
The regulation of jewellery was just as minute and severe, and to judge
from that which was in future to be allowed, the excess in this respect
must have been very great, since after pages of prohibitions with
regard to the fashions of jewellery, and the limitation of enamels and
precious stones, men were still allowed to wear as many rings as they
liked, chains and girdles of gold pieces, sets of cameos mounted in
gold, and strings of pearls in their caps. The use of silver plate is
also much limited, but still side-saddles might be made of silver, if
plain, and the harness and horse-cloths covered with the same metal.
Here, again, the same loophole for evasion was given; for all things
already made were exempt if registered within six months.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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