The Yellowstone National Park: Historical and DescriptiveChittenden, Hiram Martin
History
The Yellowstone National Park: Historical and Descriptive
Chittenden, Hiram Martin
Yellowstone National Park
Colter's whereabouts during the three years following his discharge
are difficult to fix upon. It may, however, be set down as certain
that he and his companions ascended the Yellowstone River, not the
Missouri. Captain Clark's return journey down the first-mentioned
stream had made known to them that it was better beaver country than
the Missouri, and Colter's subsequent wanderings clearly indicate that
his base of operations was in the valley of the Yellowstone near the
mouth of the Bighorn, Pryor's Fork, or other tributary stream.
In the summer of 1807, he made an expedition, apparently alone,
although probably in company with Indians, which has given him title
to a place in the history of the Yellowstone Park, and which was
destined in later years to assume an importance little enough
suspected by him at the time. His route appears upon Lewis and Clark's
map of 1814, and is there called "Colter's route in 1807." There is no
note or explanation, and we are left to retrace, on the basis of a
dotted line, a few names, and a date, one of those singular individual
wanderings through the wilderness which now and then find a permanent
place in history.
The "route," as traced on the map, starts from a point on Pryor's
Fork, the first considerable tributary of the Yellowstone above the
mouth of the Bighorn. Colter's intention seems to have been to skirt
the eastern base of the Absaroka Range until he should reach an
accessible pass across the mountains of which the Indians had
probably told him; then to cross over to the headwaters of Pacific or
gulf-flowing streams; and then to return by way of the Upper
Yellowstone.
[Illustration: /* _Opp. page 22._ */
Colter's Route in 1807.]
Accordingly, after he had passed through Pryor's Gap, he took a
south-westerly direction as far as Clark's Fork, which stream he
ascended for some distance, and then crossed over to the
Stinkingwater. Here he discovered a large boiling spring, strongly
impregnated with tar and sulphur, the odor of which, perceptible for a
great distance around, has given the stream its "unhappy name."
From this point Colter continued along the eastern flank of the
Absaroka Range, fording the several tributaries of the Bighorn River
which flow down from that range, and finally came to the upper course
of the main stream now known as Wind River. He ascended this stream to
its source, crossing the divide in the vicinity of Lincoln or Union
Pass, and found himself upon the Pacific slope. The map clearly shows
that at this point he had reached what the Indians called the "summit
of the world" near by the sources of all great streams of the west.
That he discovered one of the easy passes between Wind River and the
Pacific slope, is evident from the reference in the _Missouri Gazette_
already alluded to and here reproduced for the first time. It is from
the pen of a Mr. H. M. Brackenridge, a contemporary writer of note on
topics of western adventure. It reads:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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