The Zincali: An Account of the Gypsies of SpainBorrow, George
History
The Zincali: An Account of the Gypsies of Spain
Borrow, George
Romanies -- Languages; Romanies -- Spain
And before the soldiers could arrive at the cave, Pepe Conde had
discovered their approach and fled, endeavouring to make his escape
amongst the rocks and barrancos of the Alpujarras. The soldiers
instantly pursued, and the chase continued a considerable time. The
fugitive was repeatedly summoned to surrender himself, but refusing, the
soldiers at last fired, and four balls entered the heart of the Gypsy
contrabandista and murderer.
Once at Madrid I received a letter from the sister’s son of Pindamonas,
dated from the prison of the Saladero. In this letter the writer, who it
appears was in durance for stealing a pair of mules, craved my charitable
assistance and advice; and possibly in the hope of securing my favour,
forwarded some uncouth lines commemorative of the death of his relation,
and commencing thus:—
‘The death of Pindamonas fill’d all the world with pain;
At the coffee-house’s portal, by Pepe he was slain.’
The faubourg of Triana, in Seville, has from time immemorial been noted
as a favourite residence of the Gitános; and here, at the present day,
they are to be found in greater number than in any other town in Spain.
This faubourg is indeed chiefly inhabited by desperate characters, as,
besides the Gitános, the principal part of the robber population of
Seville is here congregated. Perhaps there is no part even of Naples
where crime so much abounds, and the law is so little respected, as at
Triana, the character of whose inmates was so graphically delineated two
centuries and a half back by Cervantes, in one of the most amusing of his
tales. {199}
In the vilest lanes of this suburb, amidst dilapidated walls and ruined
convents, exists the grand colony of Spanish Gitános. Here they may be
seen wielding the hammer; here they may be seen trimming the fetlocks of
horses, or shearing the backs of mules and borricos with their cachas;
and from hence they emerge to ply the same trade in the town, or to
officiate as terceros, or to buy, sell, or exchange animals in the
mercado, and the women to tell the bahi through the streets, even as in
other parts of Spain, generally attended by one or two tawny bantlings in
their arms or by their sides; whilst others, with baskets and
chafing-pans, proceed to the delightful banks of the Len Baro, {200} by
the Golden Tower, where, squatting on the ground and kindling their
charcoal, they roast the chestnuts which, when well prepared, are the
favourite bonne bouche of the Sevillians; whilst not a few, in league
with the contrabandistas, go from door to door offering for sale
prohibited goods brought from the English at Gibraltar. Such is Gitáno
life at Seville; such it is in the capital of Andalusia.
[Picture: Roasting Chestnuts by the side of the Guadalquiver]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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