In the autumn of 1826, after his hard work in Glasgow, Dr. Chalmers
treated himself to the rare luxury of a ramble in the south of Scotland.
The character of the man was singularly shown in the objects that
attracted him as he proceeded from place to place. In the neighbourhood
of Kelso, he stopped his gig opposite Roxburgh Castle, and running up to
it, feasted his eyes, even in the midst of rain, on an old-remembered
scene—’one of the most glorious panoramas I ever beheld, where the
blended beauties of Teviot and Tweed were concentred upon the environs
of Kelso and the Palace of Fleurs, with the seats and plantations of
other grandees.’ But it was places with an historical association that
charmed him most. The church of Anwoth, Samuel Rutherford’s early home,
greatly delighted him. The church, which was like that of Kilmany, but
smaller, still remained, but a new one was in course of erection; the
manse had just been pulled down. Sir Walter Scott could not have more
emphatically denounced such Gothicism, and the soul of Chalmers
sympathised deeply with some of the masons that had refused to
perpetrate the barbaric act, and had been dismissed from their
occupation in consequence. To see Rutherford’s ’witnesses,’ he went up
among the hills and inspected the stones which he once called to witness
against some of his parishioners who were indulging in amusement on the
Sunday. Not less enthusiastic was he at Kirkmabreck, where Dr. Thomas
Brown, the son of the minister, was buried. At Dumfries he visited Mrs.
Burns, the widow of the poet, with whom he had a pleasant conversation,
and whom he was pleased to see so comfortable. Among the gentlemen whose
acquaintance he made was Mr. Cunninghame of Lainshaw, a well-known
writer on prophecy, and Mr. Buchan of Kelloe, in Berwickshire, whose
house was ’just delicious.’ When the panorama of Berwickshire suddenly
burst on him, he was overwhelmed. Perhaps what strikes one most in his
account of this and other journeys is his readiness to be pleased, his
power of finding enjoyment in everything. There is not a single cynical
remark in all his narrative, not a flout, nor a grumble, nor a bitter
word; he is always happy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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