Thomas Hardy's DorsetHopkins, R. Thurston (Robert Thurston)
History
Thomas Hardy's Dorset
Hopkins, R. Thurston (Robert Thurston)
Dorset (England); Hardy, Thomas, 1840-1928
If the pilgrim wishes to make a pleasant excursion on foot to West Bay
he must take a track that goes round the churchyard and follow the
riverside footpath on the right bank of the stream. Thus we arrive at
Bridport Quay and West Bay. The harbour never became of any importance
owing to the microscopic shingle which has always obstructed and choked
its mouth. Everywhere the pilgrim turns he sees hillocks of this waste
sand which has prevented a willing port from serving its country. The
fact that Bridport was not called upon to provide any ships either for
the siege of Calais in 1347 or for the fleet to oppose the Spanish
Armada may be accepted as proof that the burgesses of the town possessed
no vessels large enough for fighting purposes. So the little harbour
fell into indolence and sluggishness, thus bearing out the truth of the
old saying: "That which does not serve dies."
The place is picturesque in an odd and casual way, and a scattering of
quaint old dwellings contrast with a row of new lodging-houses which are
very showy (rory-tory the Dorset rustic would style them!) in spite of
their affectation of the dandy-go-rusty tiles of antiquity. A little
group of fishermen may always be seen loafing and smoking by the
thatched Bridport Arms Hotel, and the only time these good fellows ever
show any quickening to life is when some barque, taking unusual risks,
allows itself to be towed and winched between the narrow pier-heads. At
such times the spirit of ships and men departed seems to enter into
them, and they shout and heave and sing randy-dandy deep-sea songs, and
use much profanity.
The shingle is part of one of the remarkable features of the Dorset
coast--the Chesil Beach or Chesil Bank, which runs as far as Portland.
Chesil is Old English for _pebble_, the old word being found in
Chesilton in Dorset and Chislehurst in Kent. The pebbles gradually grow
coarser as one progresses in a south-easterly direction, so that in
olden days the smugglers, running their "tubs" ashore, at venture, in
the fog or during the night, knew the exact stretch of bank they had
arrived on by taking a handful of shingle to examine. The attractions of
West Bay are good bathing, good sea fishing and good boating, for the
curious little harbour is a particularly pleasing haunt for amateur
sailors.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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