Thomas Hardy's DorsetHopkins, R. Thurston (Robert Thurston)
History
Thomas Hardy's Dorset
Hopkins, R. Thurston (Robert Thurston)
Dorset (England); Hardy, Thomas, 1840-1928
There are many pleasant short walks in the neighbourhood of Bridport and
West Bay. Eype is reached from Bridport by field paths passing through
Allington and the Lovers' Grove. A bridle-way takes one to Eype church,
standing on the ridge, whence it leads through the village down a deep
hollow to the beach. Continuing over Thorncombe Beacon, we reach
Seatown, which is a seaside branch of Chideock. "Chiddick," as any
Wessex man of the soil will pronounce the name, is a little less than a
mile inland on the Lyme Regis road. The Anchor Inn at Seatown is an old
place of entertainment I have not personally visited, but a man who
knows his Dorset informs me that it is a place where the centuries
mingle; with black beams in the ceiling, oak settles, shining with long
usage, and ironwork full of the rough simplicity of the Elizabethan
forge. I shall call there next time I fare Dorset way, if only to stand
in the great bay window which looks out to the sea. Such buildings
remind one, not of decay but of immutableness. Perhaps even the summons
of the dark Reaper would not sound quite so sharp in an ancient inn.
There are less perfect places one might die in, and if I had my wish I
would choose to pass away in an inn, where all my regrets would be
arrested by the stamping of feet on the sanded floor beneath, and the
ancient and untutored voices of farmhands and ploughmen singing some
lively song.
CHAPTER XIV
ROUND ABOUT BEAMINSTER
Beaminster is six miles to the north of Bridport, and is reached by a
pleasant walk, passing on the way the little village of Melplash.
It is a sleepy country town, deeply seated among hills, near the
head-waters of the _Birt_, which flows through it. It is a place of some
antiquity, but not remarkable for much, if we except its sufferings by
fire. In 1644, when Prince Maurice was quartered here, it was burnt
completely to the ground, having been fired by a drunken soldier. The
greater part of it was a second time destroyed in 1684, and again in
1788.
Very prominent landmarks of the Beaminster district are Pilsdon Pen and
Lewesdon Hill, two eminences of green sand remarkable for their likeness
to one another. The singularity of their appearance has naturally
excited much attention. Sailors, whom they serve as a landmark, call
them the _Cow and the Calf_; the Rev. William Crowe has sung the praises
of Lewesdon in a descriptive poem, and the two hills together have
given rise to a proverbial saying current in this country and applied
to neighbours who are not acquainted:
"... as much akin
As Lew'son Hill to Pil'son Pen."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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