To see this land typically one should outspan one's wagon on the top
of a height on a hot summer's day, when not a creature is stirring,
and the sun pours down its rays on the flaccid, dust-covered leaves
of the bushes. When the leader has gone to take the oxen to water and
the driver has gone to lie down behind the bushes, if you stand up on
the front chest of the wagon, and look out, as far as your eye can
reach, you will see over hills and dales, the bush stretching, silent,
motionless, and hot. Not a sound is to be heard; your hand blisters on
the tent of the wagon; suddenly a cicada from a clump of bush at your
right sets up its keen, shrill cry; it is glorying in the heat and the
solitude of the bush. You listen to it in the unbroken silence, till
you and it seem to be alone in the world.
Not less characteristic is the bush, when, as a little child, you
travel through it at night. The ox-wagon creaks slowly along the sandy
road in the dark, the driver walks beside it and calls at intervals
to his tired oxen; you look out across the wagon-chest, and, as the
wagon moves along, the dark outlines of the bushes on either side seem
to move too; now a great clump comes nearer and nearer like a vast
animal; then, as you peer into the dark, they seem like great ruined
castles coming to topple over you; and you creep closer down behind
the wagon-chest. Against the dark night sky to the right, on the ridge
of the hill, are the gaunt forms of aloes standing like a row of men
keeping watch. You remembered all the stories you had heard of Kaffir
wars and men shot down and stabbed, as they passed along hill-sides;
and then a will-o'-the-wisp comes out from some dried-up torrent bed,
and far before you dances in and out among the bushes, now in sight
and now gone. You are not afraid; but you are glad when the people in
the wagon begin to sing hymns; and more glad yet when at half-past
nine it stops, drawn up beside a great clump of bush at the roadside.
The tired oxen are taken from the yoke, and you climb out and light a
fire and gather from afar and near stumps of dried elephant's food and
euphorbia, and throw them on the fire, and the flame leaps up high.
Then you all sit down beside the ruddy blaze; and away off the driver
and leader have lighted their fire, and are talking to each other in
Kaffir as they boil the coffee and roast the meat. The light from your
own fire blazes up and lights the great, dusty body of the wagon, and
the tired oxen, as they lie tied to their yokes, chewing the cud; and
it glints on the bush with its dark-green leaves behind you, and on the
faces round the fire; and you laugh, and talk; and forget the stories
of Kaffir wars, and the great wild bush stretching about you.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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