had been broken but yesterday? Those motionless hills; the very knotted
Karoo stem at your hand, for how many generations have the leaves
sprouted and fallen from its gnarled stalk? The Bushman and the wild
buck have crept over the scene; they have gone, and the Englishman with
his horse and gun have come; but the plain lies with its sharp stones
turned to the sky unchanged through the centuries. Those two stones
standing loosely one upon another have stood so for thousands of years,
because there was no hand to sever them.
It is not fear one feels, with that clear, blue sky above one; that
which creeps over one is not dread. It was amid such scenes as these,
amid such motionless, immeasurable silences, that the Oriental mind
first framed its noblest conception of the unknown, the "I am that I
am" of the Hebrew.
Nor less wonderful is the Karoo at night, when the Milky Way forms a
white band across the sky; and you stand alone outside, and see the
velvety, blue-black vault rising slowly on one side of the horizon
and sinking on the other; and the silence is so intense you seem
almost to hear the stars move. Nor is it less wonderful on moonlight
nights, when you sit alone on a kopje; and the moon has arisen and the
light is pouring over the plain; then even the stones are beautiful;
and what you have believed of human love and fellowship--and never
grasped--seems all possible to you.
And not less rare is the sunrise, when the hills, which have been
purple in the dawn, turn suddenly to gold, and the rays of light shoot
fifty miles across the plain and make every drop on the ice-plants
sparkle.
Nor less wonderful are the sunsets, when you go out at evening after
the day's work. The fierce heat is over; as you walk, a cool breath
touches your cheek; you look up and all the hills are turned pink and
purple, and a curious light lies on the top of the Karoo bushes; they
are all gilded; then it vanishes, and along the horizon there are bars
of gold and crimson against a pale emerald sky; and then everything
begins to turn grey.
In the Karoo there are also mirages. As you travel along the great
plains, such as those between Beaufort and De Aar, you continually
see, in hot weather, far off on the horizon, lakes with the sunlight
sparkling on the water; there are islands and palm trees and domes and
minarets and snow-capped mountains. If you remain for half an hour they
do not change. Why the mirage should always take the shape of lakes,
islands, and palm trees, is something which science, in giving us its
cause, has not accounted for.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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