To the east of the Free State lies Basutoland, the Switzerland of
South Africa, rich in its mountains and with a climate of superb
quality. Here is to be found the Basuto nation, a people whose history
since their foundation under their valiant chieftainess Ma' Katees is
probably more epic than that of any other people in South Africa, save
that of the old fore-trekkers who founded the Transvaal Republic.
Again, north of Natal lie Zululand and the adjoining native territories
where the virile Bantu tribe of Zulus, along with other Bantu peoples,
may be found inhabiting an almost tropical and luxuriantly fertile
country: while further north and east yet along the coast stretch
the Portuguese territories, the remnants of Portugal's once large
empire, naturally rich and productive, but in many parts low-lying and
fever-smitten.
This, then, is South Africa; the country which the South African
regards as his native land. To the superficial observer nothing would
be more unlike than its differing parts; between the falls of the
Zambesi with their spray-drenched forest and their banks, unchanged
by civilization as when the eye of Livingstone first beheld them more
than thirty years ago, and a little Eastern Province town, with its
narrow, conventional life; between the wilds of Namaqualand, where the
little Bushman still sits down behind his bush to cook his supper of
animal entrails and lies down with the stars over him, and the white
house and tree-lined streets of the Paarl; between the Kalahari, where
under a thorn tree groups of antelopes are gathered in the moonlight,
and the gambling saloons and music-halls of Johannesburg and Kimberley;
between the kraals of Kaffirland, where the Kaffir boys are holding
their "abakweta" dances in the moonlight with whitened faces, and the
drawing-rooms of Cape Town, where women in low dresses sit aimlessly
talking, there seems little in common.
Nevertheless, through the whole of South Africa there runs a certain
unity. It is not only that geraniums and plumbago, flat-topped
mountains, aloes and euphorbia are peculiar to our land, and that
sand and rocks abound everywhere; nor is it even that the land is
everywhere young, and full of promise; but there is a certain colossal
plenitude, a certain large freedom in all its natural proportions,
which is truly characteristic of South Africa. If Nature here wishes to
make a mountain, she runs a range for five hundred miles; if a plain,
she levels eighty; if a rock, she tilts five thousand feet of strata
on end; our skies are higher and more intensely blue; our waves larger
than others; our rivers fiercer. There is nothing measured, small nor
petty in South Africa.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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