Three textile raw materials and their manufactureInternational Acceptance Bank
Science
Three textile raw materials and their manufacture
International Acceptance Bank
Textile fabrics; Textile fibers; Textile industry
7. Finally, there remains the method whereby almost all the British
and colonial wools are sold, namely, by auction. Auction sales have
been established for almost a century in London, Liverpool, Antwerp,
Bremen, Hamburg, Marseilles, and recently in Australia. This method
of disposing of their raw product does not, however, appeal to the
American growers, because of the inherent American trading instinct.
It is also not very feasible in this country, because the wool is
not graded in the shearing sheds and because sheep-raising in not
standardized.
[Sidenote: _Markets_]
The chief markets for wool in this country are Boston, Philadelphia,
Chicago, New York and St. Louis.
3. PULLED WOOL
We have above discussed the shearing and marketing of wool obtained
from the living animal. There remains a large quantity of wool which
is taken from the pelts of slaughtered sheep. In 1919 there were
produced 48,300,000 pounds of pulled wool in the U. S. as against
265,939,000 pounds of sheared wool.
[Sidenote: _Use_]
Skin wool, or tanner’s wool, as it is sometimes known, is used
extensively for soft twist yarns, bed blankets, flannels, felts, etc.
It is also used as an admixture in blends for top-making, as we shall
see later.
There are three methods whereby pulled wool is obtained.
[Sidenote: _Sweating_]
The oldest and simplest process is known as sweating, and consists
simply in sweating the hides until the wool is loosened and can
easily be pulled out. The disadvantage of this method is that it
injures the hides.
[Sidenote: _Lime_]
The lime process consists in loosening the wool by painting the flesh
side of the hide with lime. This also injures the hides somewhat and
has a bad effect on the dyeing qualities of the wool.
[Sidenote: _Depilatory_]
The depilatory process is the best, and varies from the lime process
only in that a solution is used instead of lime. This mixture
consists of sodium sulphate, sulphuric acid, and oyster shells.
By far the greatest pullery in the world is situated at Mazamet,
France, where the industry has assumed gigantic proportions. The
large packers in this country all operate their own pulleries, and
the pulled wool is marketed largely by them. Most mills buy their
pulled wool direct from the pulleries, but some is handled by
merchants.
4. WHAT IS WOOL
We have now traced the wool from the sheep’s back as far as the bag,
and may assume that the bag has travelled from the shearing shed
to the merchant’s or mill’s warehouse. Some foreign wools, notably
Australian and South American, are, as we have seen, skirted and
roughly graded in the shearing shed, so that, when the bag is opened,
there remains only the sorting to do. Grading is the separation
of fleeces into classified groups. Skirting is the removal from
each fleece of the worst parts, namely, the britch wool, manure
locks (known as tags), and matted or kempy portions. Sorting is the
dividing of the individual fleece into various classifications.
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