Three textile raw materials and their manufactureInternational Acceptance Bank
Science
Three textile raw materials and their manufacture
International Acceptance Bank
Textile fabrics; Textile fibers; Textile industry
The operation of the loom has already been described in connection
with the manufacture of cotton, but the preparatory processes,
although somewhat similar, vary considerably because of the
difference in the nature of the materials. In worsted manufacture the
work which has to be done before the loom can begin to operate is
usually referred to as loom-mounting, and consists of five stages.
[Sidenote: _Warping_]
1. Warping is the arranging of the warp threads in the order
necessary to produce the desired cloth. This was formerly, and still
is to a great extent, done entirely by hand on a sort of rack known
as the woof. In the larger mills, however, warping is now done either
on a sectional warping machine or on the warping mill. Both these
devices are only partly automatic, and require highly-skilled labor.
[Sidenote: _Sizing_]
2. The mechanical structure of woolen or worsted yarns necessitates
the application of some glutinous substance to their surfaces before
subjecting them to the weaving process. No matter how even the
worsted yarn, a microscopic examination would show certain fibres
protruding from the surface. Sizing has the effect of smoothing
the surface of the yarn, and at the same time distributing more
evenly the strain of weaving. The sizing machine is rather like the
back-washer used in the manufacturing of worsted yarn. The warp is
run through the sizing bath and then compressed between rollers,
after which it is dried by steam or fan.
[Sidenote: _Beaming_]
3. Beaming is the term applied to winding the warp upon the beam of
the loom. (The beam is the roller from which the warp threads are
unwound as the weaving progresses.) In order to keep the threads in
their proper position an instrument known as a raddle is employed,
and the raddling process is one which requires considerable care.
[Illustration: _Drawing in the warp threads_]
[Sidenote: _Healding_]
4. The next step, healding, is the same as that described on page 34
and enables the warp threads to be lifted in sections in order that
the shuttle may pass under some and over others. From the original
weave of lifting alternate threads, a great many complicated designs
have been evolved, which necessitate the lifting of the warp threads
in many small series. In the elementary weave where there are only
two groups, this work is done by heald-wires which raise the odd
and depress the even threads, thus forming a V, known as the shed,
through which the shuttle may pass. As the design becomes more
intricate the healding process becomes more complicated, and the
number of heald shafts increases.
[Sidenote: _Sleying_]
5. Sleying, or reeding, is the final preparatory process, and has
the object of keeping the warp threads the proper distance apart
during weaving. The sley is really nothing more than a fine comb with
a strip across the ends of the teeth. The warp threads are passed
between the wires (reeds) of the sley and are so compelled to keep
their proper position.
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