Three textile raw materials and their manufactureInternational Acceptance Bank
Science
Three textile raw materials and their manufacture
International Acceptance Bank
Textile fabrics; Textile fibers; Textile industry
Whereas we found that combing wool had to be left in the grease until
it could be carded immediately after scouring, the maker of woolen
yarn will buy wool that has been scoured months before. Most of the
wool that is scoured by or near the growers finds its way into the
woolen industry for this reason. The scouring given to clothing wool
varies only in that it is more violent than that given to combing
wool, and in that it is frequently augmented by carbonization to
remove vegetable matter.
[Illustration: _Mule Spinning_]
[Sidenote: _Blending_]
The first process after scouring is blending. When the desired
mixture of various grades, kinds, and colors of wool, wool extract,
or cotton has been effected, the resulting heterogeneous mass is put
through the first of several carding processes.
[Sidenote: _Fibres not parallel as in Worsted_]
From now on the desire of the woolen yarn manufacturer is
diametrically opposed to that of the worsted comber. He wants to
open out the fibres, but he wants them to lie in all directions. He
does not want uniformity. He wants just the opposite. His yarn must
have a certain amount of strength, but it must have, first of all,
felting properties, so that when the cloth is finished the various
threads will merge and interlock. As might be expected, therefore,
the carding process is very much more violent.
[Sidenote: _Carding_]
[Sidenote: _Condenser_]
The blend is first put through a fearnought which might be described
briefly as the most pitiless member of the card family. It is also
known as a tenter-hook-willy, from the reversed position of its
teeth. From this machine the wool goes through the card proper, which
is similar to the worsted card except that the rollers go in opposite
directions, instead of in the same directions. Here, again, the
doffer lifts the wool off in a continuous filmy sheet and delivers
it to the condenser. The sheet is not simply drawn through a funnel
into a single thick sliver, but is forced between rollers into two
leather rubbing aprons which by pressure and friction reduce it to a
series of small soft flabby slivers, having just enough adhesiveness
to permit of mule spinning.
[Illustration: _Burling and mending_]
The fibres in these slivers may be of all lengths and degrees of
fineness, and they lie in all directions.
There are now no elaborate drawing or combing processes. All that
remains to be done before we have a weavable woolen yarn is a certain
amount of twisting and attenuation. Both these results are obtained
at once in the mule.
[Sidenote: _Mule Spinning_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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