Three textile raw materials and their manufactureInternational Acceptance Bank
Science
Three textile raw materials and their manufacture
International Acceptance Bank
Textile fabrics; Textile fibers; Textile industry
It is obvious that in this classification the human element plays
a great part. The difference between quarter grades, or even half
grades, or between a tinge and a stain, are subject to a great
variety of interpretations. While there is no definite standard,
Middling must be cream or white, must show no soil evidence, no
gin-cuts or naps, may have a few pieces of leaf (not powdered), and
a few motes, (immature seeds). As the grades go up the cotton must
be freer of impurities until the top grades have to show practically
a perfect lustrous, silky, white, and clear fibre. On the lower side
the impurities increase, until, in the Ordinaries, we find large and
small leaf particles, sticks, hulls, dirt, sand naps, gin-cuts, and
spots, together with a dingy color.
[Sidenote: _Some Cottons not Sold on Middling Basis_]
It is this classification that governs the trading on all the
exchanges, and upon which the planter originally sells his crop. The
exceptions are those varieties of cotton which are distinct from the
crop as a whole. Sea Islands are sold as Fancy, Choice, Fine, Medium,
and Common. Bolly or immature cotton is sold by separate agreements;
and Linters, the fibres regained by the seed mills from reginning the
seed, are not sold on this basis. Neither is what is known as the
“City Crop” of loose cotton accumulated from taking samples, sold in
this way.
[Sidenote: _Staple Length_]
Aside from grade there are two other qualifications which are of
equal importance to the manufacturer: length, and strength. Lengths
are quoted in eights of an inch, and cotton under 1⅛” is termed
short, while that over 1⅛” is long. The normal lengths run from ¾”
to 1⅞”, and it is noteworthy that, where a normal difference between
grades would be 25 points, the difference of ⅛” would be about 250
points. “Pulling” for staple is another art where the individual’s
judgment plays an important part.
[Sidenote: _Elasticity_]
Strength,—elasticity and tensile strength,—is again one of the mill’s
prerequisites. The usual buyer’s test for fibre vitality is to
compress a sample in the hand to see if it will return to its former
shape. The importance of length is that it governs the fineness of
the yarn to be spun, while grades affect the finish of the cloth.
We shall see later that mills cannot buy mixed lots, but must have
even-running grades of fixed staple.
5. BUYERS OF RAW COTTON
[Sidenote: _Storekeepers as Local Buyers_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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