As I was proceeding along a lane between some cottage enclosures, I happened to pass a Christian woman on the other side of the palings, and certainly on the wrong side of forty. So far was I from staring at her that I had hardly noticed her in passing, till she screamed after me, ‘Hai’ ti! Hai’ ti!’ ‘Quick; be off!’ a usual expression of veiled Mahometan women in Bosnia if passed too closely on the road; and on my looking round to see if anything was the matter, she repeated these expressions with increased emphasis, and, rapidly raising her voice to cockatoo pitch, gave vent to the enquiry, which, though couched in not too courteous terms, few visitors to Bosnia remain long unacquainted with—_Što glédaš?_ ‘What are you staring at?’ The view was certainly not very attractive, and as she seemed inclined to follow up her remarks with some more practical demonstration, and I myself was anything but desirous of crossing the path of a second Bosnian virago on the same afternoon, I beat a hasty retreat, venturing, however, to think that it would have been better if she had carried out her Oriental principles to their logical conclusion and veiled herself entirely. The rayah women of some parts of Bosnia—about Pristina, for example—actually go so far as to do this. I found that L⸺ had been faring worse than myself; for in attempting to penetrate along another lane he was received in front and flank with such a volley of stones as repulsed him with loss. Next morning, hearing that the Kaïmakàm wished to see us before we proceeded on our way, we visited the Konak about seven; but were obliged to waste nearly two hours of a time of day most valuable to pedestrians, waiting for the great man. While we were thus doomed to loaf, a very learned-looking Effendi of the Kaïmakàm’s divan came up and solicited permission to look through our spectacles, exchanging the compliment by lending us his own, which we found to our surprise to be made of plain window-glass, and even that, partly owing to dirt and partly to its inferior quality, was anything but crystalline, and positively obscured the vision. But he probably found them useful in impressing the Kaïmakàm with a due sense of his erudition, and he certainly succeeded in focussing his subordinates with them most effectually. The worthy man’s delight on looking through spectacles that really aided the sight was something childish, but we were not inclined to accept his overtures for a swap. At last the Kaïmakàm himself appeared, attired this time in a light white suit of most correct cut. He was evidently a Turk of the new school, and showed a most intelligent interest in our map, which he understood perfectly, and pointed out on it the route of the new railway which has just been begun in Bosnia.