Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875Evans, Arthur, Sir
History
Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875
Evans, Arthur, Sir
Bosnia and Herzegovina -- Description and travel; Bosnia and Herzegovina -- History -- Rebellion of 1875
We found much to interest us in the streets of Travnik, and indeed the
superior architecture of the town still witnesses its old importance
as the seat of government. There are some larger buildings besides the
castle already mentioned—palaces of bygone Viziers, barracks for Turkish
troops. Even the ordinary rows of wooden houses—with their latticed
dairy-like windows, the central bays of their upper story, the blue
pillars and other ornaments painted outside—are not without variety in
hue and outline; and amongst these rise more solid edifices of stone.
Here, for instance, is one such—the best in the town—supported on
arcades of solid masonry, adorned with rosettes carved in the spandrils
of the arches: perhaps an old Bezestan or cloth-hall—very possibly the
magazine of some merchant prince from Ragusa, for the arcading below is
characteristic of the street architecture of the old republic. Beyond
this—we are surveying one of the most picturesque street scenes in
Travnik—rises an old mosque of wood, time-stained, dilapidated, with
pinnacle awry. At its side an elegant cupola, supported on four columns
and ogee arches, encanopies the turbaned tomb of a Mahometan saint; for
every true believer who falls in battle against the infidel ‘drinks,’ as
the Bosnian historian expresses it, ‘the sweet sherbet of martyrdom,’ and
passes from this ‘vale of tears’ to enter with saintly honours into the
joys of Paradise. Beyond these rose a background of gardens and spreading
foliage, and above, the naked precipices of Mount Vlašić.
[Illustration: View in Travnik.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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