Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875Evans, Arthur, Sir
History
Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875
Evans, Arthur, Sir
Bosnia and Herzegovina -- Description and travel; Bosnia and Herzegovina -- History -- Rebellion of 1875
We were in a certain amount of anxiety lest the enemy should renew his
attack with reinforcements, but the valley grew wilder and the darkness
was rapidly closing in to hide our position. Further up the stream we
passed those two monuments, one with a crescent moon engraved upon it,
which have been already described—and the position was one which the
persecuted Bogomiles might well have chosen. Towards dusk the valley
widened out a bit, and we perceived a village a little higher up; but
not wishing to run the risk of letting our whereabouts be known, and
infinitely preferring the open canopy of heaven to the vermin-ridden
shelter of a Bosnian cabin, we sought out some other resting-place for
the night, and soon discovered eligible quarters among some haystacks in
a meadow by the side of the stream. These haystacks were of a peculiar
form, being composed of small sheaves of hay skewered on an upright pole,
but they afforded very welcome shelter from the night breeze; so that
after taking our tea and an evening meal of simple contrivance, we lay
down and slept sound enough till dawn.
_Aug. 25th._—We had breakfasted and were on our way again by half-past
four next morning, and the light of the rising sun revealed to us a most
beautiful cliff of rock, as it were of ivory veined with gold, rising
above our encampment. After passing the straggling village of Jablanica,
which we had seen the night before, the valley contracted, and we were
forced to climb along a rocky steep overlooking the torrent on the left.
The mountains on each side grew higher, wooded with small oaks, thorns,
and beeches, with here and there a brilliant Colossus of rock in the same
chryselephantine style; while the stream below, pent up in so precipitous
a gorge, naturally waxed more boisterous, and dashed from one emerald
pool to another, flaked with snow-white foam. But our steep quickly
became so impassable by reason of rocky bastions, that we were forced to
relinquish our design of following the water-course, and in preference
ascended the mountain whose flank we had been hitherto hugging. We made
our way upwards with difficulty through the tangled brushwood, and from
this summit descended once more through the stunted oaks, intending
to steer for a hilly ridge running south-west towards Mt. Bielastica.
Chancing, however, to hit on a path more or less in our direction, we
followed it, and found ourselves before long at a small Christian hamlet
consisting of two or three huts, each, as usual, in its paled enclosure.
Here we found some peasants—men in long white tunics, women with dress
and coiffure of Serbian fashion—all of whom were very friendly, and
hastened to satisfy our thirst with sour milk. One of the girls, in the
bloom of her age, was really beautiful. Both her hair and eyes, shaded
with eyebrows low and broad, were dark, and, in the refinement of her
features, the pale olive of her complexion, softly contrasting with
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