Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875Evans, Arthur, Sir
History
Through Bosnia and the Herzegóvina on foot during the insurrection, August and September 1875
Evans, Arthur, Sir
Bosnia and Herzegovina -- Description and travel; Bosnia and Herzegovina -- History -- Rebellion of 1875
her raven tresses and sparkling sombreness of eye, there was a charm
almost Italian—had it not yet been eminently South-Sclavonic. She seemed
as amiable as she was lovely, and was evidently recognised as a belle
even in her small circle; for she alone, we noticed, was possessed of
ear-rings. Her comeliness was indeed the _beau idéal_ of Serbian fancy;
but I should hardly have drawn attention to it here, were not really
transcendent beauty so rarely seen among these uncultured South-Sclavonic
peoples, perhaps one might say, among the barbarous members of our
Aryan family generally. In a highly civilized society like our own, the
proportion of Peris—if I dare generalize—is greater; but, on the other
hand, if anyone wishes to find examples of the deepest human degradation,
he must search, not among the mountain homes of the oppressed rayahs of
Bosnia, but rather in the alleys of one of our great cities. With us the
gamut of beauty is greater.
But it is high time to take a fond farewell! so, leaving this flower of
the Bosnian highlands ‘to blush unseen, and waste its sweetness on the
desert air,’ we began ascending our ridge, and finding another path,
came, an hour or so further on, to a leafy canopy supported by four
poles, beneath which squatted two venerable Mahometans with sage and
hoary beards. We recognised the signs of a rustic _café_, and taking
our seats on a convenient grassy bank, refreshed ourselves with sundry
fragrant cupfuls, the while much delighting our ancient coffee-maker and
his fellow with an exhibition of English hunting-knives. We soon after
reached the summit of the ridge, and following it along a succession
of down-like lawns, gained, from its southern-most bluff just above
the Priesnica torrent, a fine mountain panorama, and in especial a
good view of the limestone precipices of Mt. Trescovica (which here
forms the boundary between Bosnia and Herzegovina), frowning over lower
forest-covered heights. So sharp was the contrast between the bold curves
and contortions of the light limestone rock and the softer contours and
verdant shades beneath, that one could fancy that the green undulations
of the Planinas round had at one point burst into foaming billows; and,
indeed, the mountain crest seemed to curl over as to imitate a breaking
wave,—but alas! how flat is the poetry of nature when reduced to black
and white by a prosaic pencil!
[Illustration: Mount Trescovica, from South-Eastern Spur of Mount Igman.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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