Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917 — John Shaqi
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917Lumholtz, Carl
History
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917
Lumholtz, Carl
Borneo -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Borneo; Natural history -- Borneo
Reflecting that in the worst case I would be back in Montreal in one and a
half days, I fell asleep. At 6.30 in the morning I was awakened by the
voice of the porter saying, "the train is waiting for you, sir," as he
rolled up the curtain. It really was the Imperial Express! The big red
cars stood there quietly in the sunshine of the early morning. In a few
minutes I was dressed, and never with greater satisfaction have I paid a
porter his fee.
The station was Chalk River, and the train had waited forty minutes. What
a comfortable feeling to know that all my belongings were safely on board!
I had not only saved time and money but an interesting trip across the
continent lay before me. Having washed and put on clean garments, I had my
breakfast while passing through an enchanting hilly country, amid smiling
white birches, and the maples in the autumn glory of their foliage, with
more intensely red colouring than can be seen outside North America. The
oatmeal porridge seemed unusually well prepared: the waiter intimated that
the cook was a Parisian. However that might have been, he was probably of
French descent.
Four days later we arrived at Vancouver, where I wrote to the three
gentlemen of Montreal, my appreciation of services rendered, addressing
them care of _The Star_. Their names I did not know, but it was not the
first time that I had been reminded of Darwin's assurance, in the account
of his travels round the world, as to "how many truly kind-hearted people
there are, with whom he (the traveller) never before had, nor ever again
will have any further communication, who yet are ready to offer him the
most disinterested assistance."
Early in the morning on October 19 we saw the first Japanese fishing-boats.
The sea was green and in the atmosphere a kind of haze, which almost seems
peculiar to Japan, imparted an artistic tone to everything. In splendid
weather, almost calm, we sailed along the coast of Nippon. As we entered
the bay of Yokohama the sun was setting over a landscape that realised
one's preconceived ideas of the beauty of the country. On one side, low
ridges with rows of picturesque pine-trees just as you know them from
Japanese prints, while in the background to the west, above the clouds rose
the top of Fuji, nearly 4,000 metres above sea-level. We steamed up in
absolute calm, while the long twilight was still further prolonged by a
brilliant afterglow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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