Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917Lumholtz, Carl
History
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917
Lumholtz, Carl
Borneo -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Borneo; Natural history -- Borneo
During the few days I stayed in Buitenzorg, the botanical gardens were a
source of ever new delight. It was in the latter half of November and thus
well into the rainy season. Usually showers came every afternoon, but the
mornings, even up to eleven o'clock, always appeared like spring-time,
only in a more magnificent edition than that of temperate zones. In the
effulgence of light and the fresh coolness of the first hours of the day,
plant and animal life seemed jubilant. After the calm and heat of midday,
violent thunder-storms of short duration may occur, but the evenings are
generally beautiful, although the prevailing inclination is to retire
early. In the tropics one realises more readily than elsewhere how a
single day contains all the verities and realities of one's whole life:
spring, summer, and autumn every day, as in a year or in a lifetime.
Australians and Americans who visit Java every year make a great mistake
in selecting the dry season, April to July, for their travels. To be sure,
one is not then troubled by rain, but on the other hand the heat is
greater, the country becomes dry, and including the botanical gardens,
loses much of its attraction.
I decided to go by rail to Soerabaia, the point of steamboat connection
with Borneo; this would give me opportunity to see Java besides saving
some time. After twelve hours' travel by express the train stops for the
night at Djokjakarta where there is a good hotel. We now find ourselves in
a region which formerly was the main seat of Buddhism in Java. The
world-famous monument, Boro Budur, is in the neighbourhood to the north in
the district of Kedu, and by motor-car a visit may easily be made in one
day, but for those who can spend more time on this interesting excursion
there is satisfactory accommodation in a small hotel near by. The
government has of late years successfully restored this magnificent ancient
structure which at its base forms a square, with the length of the side 150
metres, and rises to a height of more than 30 metres. At first sight it
does not seem as large as expected, but on entering the first gallery one
is struck by the monumental magnitude and unique beauty of the edifice.
Built upon a small hill from blocks of trachyte, it consists of twelve
terraces rising one above another, and connected by staircases. The
uppermost terrace, fifteen metres in diameter, has a dome. Each gallery is
surrounded by a wall adorned with niches in handsome settings, each
containing a life-sized Buddha, with legs crossed, soles turned downward.
There are 432 such niches, and from this great number of statues of the
famous religious founder the place probably derived its name, Boro Budur
equals Bara Buddha (Buddhas without number).
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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