Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917Lumholtz, Carl
History
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917
Lumholtz, Carl
Borneo -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Borneo; Natural history -- Borneo
The steamship connection with Samarinda is irregular, and as a small
transport steamer was making ready to take away its usual cargo of rattan
and rubber, I decided to avail myself of the opportunity. The commercial
products are loaded in a fair-sized boat, which is made fast to the side
of the steamer, and a similar one may be attached to the other side. Such
boats, which are called tonkang, also take passengers, mostly Malay and
Chinese, but there are no cabins, and the travellers spread their mats on
the limited deck according to mutual agreement.
A swarm of Kenyahs began at seven o'clock to convey our baggage, and the
soldiers later reported that there was not even standing-room left. I
climbed on board and found rattan piled high everywhere, covering even the
steps that led up to the "passenger-deck," where I emerged crawling on all
fours. A shelter of duck had been raised for me in one corner, the
lieutenant and Mr. Loing placed their beds in the adjoining space, while
the soldiers camped next to them. All the natives, packed closely
together, formed another row.
The most necessary of my belongings were stored inside the shelter, and
there I passed the four days quite comfortably. On account of many noises,
including that made by the engine, reading was impossible, so I employed
the time in mending two suits of my precious linen-mesh underwear which
was rapidly going to shreds, without prospect of opportunity to replace
them in the Far East. Morning and afternoon the Malays on deck held their
Mohammedan services, apparently singing in Arabic, and during the night
the sailors sang much. There were two rough bath-rooms, but I bathed only
once, as I was afraid of losing my slippers or other articles that were
liable to drop into the river through the intervals between the narrow
boards of the floor.
We travelled steadily day and night, but stopped at many kampongs to take
on more cargo, and an additional tonkang was attached, which relieved some
of the congestion on ours. One afternoon the monotony was relieved by a
fight in the kitchen of the little steamer, when a sudden thumping sound
of nude feet against the floor was heard and boiled rice flew about. But
it was very soon over, evidently only an outburst of dissatisfaction with
the cook; somebody called for the Malay captain and we heard no more about
it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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