Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917Lumholtz, Carl
History
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917
Lumholtz, Carl
Borneo -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Borneo; Natural history -- Borneo
There was a Bombay Mohammedan merchant on board who had small stores of
groceries and dry-goods on the Kutei River, as the Mahakam is called in
its lower course. He also spoke of the hundreds of thousands of Hindus who
live in South Africa. On the last day of our journey a remarkably tame
young snake bird was brought on board, which one of the sailors bought.
According to reports, there are many of these birds on the river. He tied
it to the stern railing until night, when he put it on top of the cargo,
apprehending that it might try to dive if tempted by the constant sight of
the water. When asleep it curled itself up in an extraordinary manner, the
long neck at first glance giving it a serpent-like appearance. It cried
for fish and showed absolutely no fear.
On August 22, 1916, we arrived at Samarinda. The custom-house authorities
permitted me to put our numerous packages in the "bom." The lieutenant and
Mr. Loing went to a new Chinese hotel, while I, in a prahu, paddled to the
pasang-grahan, a spacious building with several rooms. Our journey through
Central Borneo had been successfully concluded, and during nine months we
had covered by river 1,650 kilometres, 750 of these in native boats.
During my absence the great war had become more real to the Archipelago
through the occasional appearance in Bornean waters of British and
Japanese cruisers. I heard of a German who walked from Bandjermasin to
Samarinda because he was afraid of being captured if he went by steamer.
The journey took him six weeks. It was my intention, while waiting here a
few days for the steamer, to visit a locality farther down the river which
is marked on the map as having Hindu antiquities. The kapala of the
district, who had been there, was sent for, and as he said that he had
neither seen nor heard of any such relics, which probably would have to be
searched for, I relinquished the trip. Hindu remains, which locally were
known to be present in a cave north of Samarinda, had been visited in 1915
by the former assistant resident, Mr. A.W. Spaan, whose report on the
journey was placed at my disposal. The cave is in a mountain which bears
the name Kong Beng, Mountain of Images, due probably to a local Dayak
language. It lies in an uninhabited region four days' march west of
Karangan, or nearly two days' east of the River Telen, the nearest Dayaks,
who are said to be Bahau, living on the last-named river. During the time
of Sultan Suleiman six or seven statues were taken from Kong Beng to
Batavia and presented to the museum there.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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