Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917Lumholtz, Carl
History
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917
Lumholtz, Carl
Borneo -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Borneo; Natural history -- Borneo
The kapala cleared the way with his parang, and just before dusk we
arrived at the balei, a large structure which the people had taken as a
permanent abode, having no houses and possessing ladangs near by. Many
fires were burning inside, round which the families had gathered cooking
rice, and my entire party also easily found room. The kapala at once sent
out five men to gather the necessary coolies for the continuance of our
journey the following day.
The carriers were slow in coming, and while waiting in the morning I
catalogued four baskets which my messenger had brought from Tappin and a
few more which I was able to buy here. The woman from Tappin, who
accompanied my man, was even better informed than Dongiyak. She knew
designs with remarkable certainty, and it was gratifying to be able to
confirm information gathered before, also in two instances to correct
errors. Many of the designs seemed familiar to the men standing around,
for they, too, without being asked, would sometimes indicate the meaning
correctly.
This done, I again inspected the balei, accompanied by the kapala who
himself was a blian; he and the others were perfectly willing to give any
information about customs and beliefs, although equally unable to do so.
The dancing space in the middle was rectangular, about eight metres long,
lying nearly east and west. It was about thirty centimetres lower than the
remainder of the floor, on which I counted nineteen small rooms, or rather
stalls. In the middle of the dancing place was a large ornamental stand
made of wood, twice as high as a man, from which were hanging great
quantities of stripped palm leaves. From the western part of the stand
protruded upward a long narrow plank, painted with simple curved designs
representing nagah, the great antoh, shaped like a serpent and provided
with four short curved fangs stretched forward. The people could not be
induced to sell the effigy because it was not yet one year old.
The country was uneven and heavy for travelling, or, as the carriers
expressed it, the land was sakit (Malay for "ill"). There were more
mountain ranges than I expected, rather low, though one we got a fine view
of two quite impressive mountains. Here and there on the distant hillsides
ladangs were seen and solitary houses could be discerned. On our arrival
in the first kampong we were hospitably offered six young cocoanuts,
considered a great delicacy even among white people. Although I do not
much appreciate the sweetish, almost flavourless water of this fruit, they
proved very acceptable to my men, as the day was intensely hot for Borneo.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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