Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917Lumholtz, Carl
History
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917
Lumholtz, Carl
Borneo -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Borneo; Natural history -- Borneo
At the kampong Belimbing, by taking out on of the walls which were
constructed like stiff mats, I obtained a good room in the pasang grahan,
but the difficulty about getting men increased. The kapala, or pumbakal,
as this official is called in these parts, was obliging and friendly, but
he had slight authority and little energy. He personally brought the men
by twos and threes, finally one by one, and he worked hard. When finally
we were able to start, still a couple of men short, he asked to be excused
from accompanying me further, to which I readily assented. There were too
many pumbakals who graced the expedition with their presence. I believe we
had four that day who successively led the procession, generally with good
intentions to be of assistance, but, in accordance with their dignity,
carrying little or nothing, and receiving the same payment as the rest.
However, it must be conceded that their presence helped to make an
impression on the next kampong which was expected to furnish another gang
of carriers.
We managed to travel along, and finally reached the last Dayak kampong,
Bayumbong, consisting of the balei and a small house. The balei was of
limited proportions, dark, and uninviting, so I put up my tent, which was
easily done as the pumbakal and men were friendly and helpful. All the
carriers were, of course, anxious to return, but as they were engaged to
go to Kandangan I told them they would have to continue, promising,
however, to pay for two days instead of one and to give them all rice in
the evening. These people are like children, and in dealing with them a
determined but accommodating ruling is necessary.
The journey was less rough than before, though we still passed gulches
over which bamboo poles afforded passage for a single file, and soon the
road began to be level. It was not more than four or five hours' walk to
Kandangan, but rain began to fall and the men each took a leaf from the
numerous banana trees growing along the road with which to protect
themselves. On approaching the village we found two sheds some distance
apart which had been built conveniently over the road for the comfort of
travelling "inlanders." As the downpour was steady I deemed it wise to
stop under these shelters, on account of the natives, if for no other
reason, as they are unwilling carriers in rain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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