Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917 — John Shaqi
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917Lumholtz, Carl
History
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917
Lumholtz, Carl
Borneo -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Borneo; Natural history -- Borneo
The house where I lived was on the main street, on the river bank, and in
the evening the little shops on either side started playing nasty, cheap
European phonographs the noise of which was most disagreeable. Most of the
records were of Chinese music, the harsh quality of which was magnified
tenfold by the imperfections of the instruments. When the nerve-wracking
concert became intolerable, they were always good enough to stop it at my
request.
However, there was one feature about this remote place which was
repugnant--the prevalent flogging of children with rattan, mostly among
the Mohammedan Malays. Not a day passed without wails and violent cries
arising in some part of the town, especially during the forenoon, although
I did not perceive that the children here were more incorrigible than
elsewhere. The Dayaks never beat their children, and later I did not
observe similar cruelty among Malays. Wise though King Solomon was, his
precept not to spare the rod should be regarded in the light of his large
family, "700 wives, princesses, and 300 concubines." Even in the training
of animals, better results are obtained by omitting the lash.
In the beginning of January, 1914, I was able to start for Kaburau. The
controleur courteously provided for my use the government's steamship
_Sophia_, which in six hours approached within easy distance of the
kampong. My party consisted of Ah Sewey, a young Chinese photographer from
Singapore whom I had engaged for developing plates and films, also
Chonggat, a Sarawak Dayak who had had his training at the museum of Kuala
Lampur in the Malay Peninsula. Finally, Go Hong Cheng, a Chinese trader,
acted as interpreter and mandur (overseer). He spoke several Dayak
dialects, but not Dutch, still less English, for Malay is the lingua
franca of the Dutch Indies as well as of the Malay Peninsula. As we
anchored for the night I heard for the first time, from the hills that
rose near by, the loud defiant cry of the argus pheasant. How wildly weird
it sounds on a quiet evening!
The next morning the Kayans met us with boats to take us up to their
kampong, Kaburau. Some women were pounding paddi (rice) under the large
communal house which, in accordance with the custom of the country, was
raised from the ground on posts. Dogs were much in evidence, both on the
ground below and on the gallery of the house above. The canine species
kept by the Dayaks have erect ears, are rather small and their colour is
usually dull yellow. Here they were variously coloured, some entirely
black, and fights among them were of frequent occurrence. Ascending the
ladder I found a large tame bird of the stork family chained to the
gallery, for the Dayaks often keep birds and animals in their houses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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