Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917Lumholtz, Carl
History
Through Central Borneo; an Account of Two Years' Travel in the Land of Head-Hunters Between the Years 1913 and 1917
Lumholtz, Carl
Borneo -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Borneo; Natural history -- Borneo
At Long Pangian several days were spent in vain efforts to secure men and
prahus to continue the journey up the Kayan River. The few Malays about,
as usual, did not believe in work, but the posthouder finally succeeded in
calling Kenyahs from the river above, and on the 1st of May we started
with five prahus and twenty-four men. It was quite refreshing to hear
again the joyous shouts of the paddlers, who worked eagerly and quickly
against the strong current. A little over an hour brought us to some
well-known rapids, or "kihams," as they usually are called in Borneo.
Formerly this Kiham Raja had a bad reputation, Dayaks being killed here
occasionally every year, but of late the government has blasted out rocks
and made it more passable. However, even now it is no trifle to negotiate
these rapids. Below them we halted and threw explosive Favier into the
water in the hope of getting fish, and as soon as the upheaval of the
water began the Kenyahs, as if by a given signal, hurried all the prahus
out to the scene. With other natives than Dayaks this would have given me
some anxiety, as the boats were heavily laden and contained valuable
cameras and instruments. We secured quite a number of fish and the Kenyahs
had a good time.
The traveller soon assumes a feeling of confidence in these experienced
men as, according to circumstances, they paddle, pole, or drag the prahu
by a long piece of rattan tied to the inside of the bow. In passing these
rapids most of them got out and dragged us by the rattan, but as the shore
consisted of big stones that sometimes were inaccessible, they would often
throw themselves with the rope into the foaming water and manage to get
foothold a little further up. Sometimes it looked as if they would not
succeed, the prahu receding precariously, but they were so quick in their
movements and the prahus followed each other so closely that it was
possible to give mutual help.
Amban Klesau, the only son of the chief of Long Mahan, directed my prahu.
He had taken part in an expedition to New Guinea and was an efficient and
pleasant man who had seen something of the world, but his attire was
fantastic, consisting of a long white nightshirt with a thin red girdle
around the waist, to which was attached his parang adorned with many
ornaments. He liked that shirt, for he did not take it off all day,
notwithstanding the extreme heat. The dry season had set in, and though in
our travels I took good care to place mats over the iron boxes in which
cameras and plates were kept, still they became warm. When I photographed,
perspiration fell like rain-drops. At Long Mahan (mahan = difficulties, or
time spent) we found the pasang-grahan occupied by travelling Malays, two
of whom were ill from a disease resembling cholera, so we moved on to a
ladang a little higher up, where we found a camping-site.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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