Through East Anglia in a Motor CarVincent, James Edmund
General
Through East Anglia in a Motor Car
Vincent, James Edmund
Norfolk (England) -- Description and travel; Suffolk (England) -- Description and travel
bloodshot eyes the next morning, and broken perforce the next evening; but
night travelling by motor-car in winter is not to be recommended unless the
moon is strong. It is a process to be resolved upon when circumstances
suit, not to be planned in advance.
From Acle to Norwich was ten miles more or less of up-and-down travelling,
the hills not serious enough to try a good motor high, and it was an
unfeigned relief to reach the shelter and food of the Royal Hotel. Here,
practically, ends the account of the second day of this excursion, for the
Royal Hotel is comfortable, not expensive as English hotels go, and new;
but mere comfort is fortunately commonplace, its novelty is rather more of
an outrage than usual in this case, and the novelty of the hotel's name is
an offence not to be pardoned. Here, where the modern "Royal" stands, in
the very centre of the city, stood the famous "Angel" from the fifteenth
century at least to the middle of the nineteenth. Local antiquaries, many
and eager, rejoice in tracing the history of this celebrated hostelry,
finding frequent allusions to it in the records of the Master of the
Revels, for here mountebanks performed, and theatrical performances were
given, and strange monsters were shown. It had the glory of paying £115 tax
for thirty windows in the eighteenth century--this makes one understand the
blocked windows in old houses more sympathetically than a bare mention of
window tax does--and it was the great Whig House in the days when Norfolk
elections were, as Mr. Walter Rye tells us, half of the history of Norfolk,
the other half being concerned with trade. It is true that Mr. Walter Rye,
speaking of the election of 1675, says that Sir Nevill Cattyn's party
"used the 'Royal,' (then the 'King's Head,') and the other side, using a
stratagem--singularly enough repeated at the same house last election, two
or three years ago--ordered a great dinner there on the pretence that they
might 'friendly meet and dine' with the other party, and ultimately secured
the whole house as their election quarters; Cattyn, who was brought into
town by four thousand horsemen, having to put up with the 'White Swan' 'at
the back side of the butchers' shambles'" (_A History of Norfolk_, by
Walter Rye. Elliot Stock, 1885). I prefer to pin my faith to _Norfolk and
Norwich Notes and Queries_, not only because its elaborate article on the
topic is evidently based on careful research, but also because its
statements are not contradicted in subsequent issues, and these bear
eloquent testimony to the fact that the local antiquaries of East Anglia
have at least one trait in common with the antiquaries of the wider
world--they contradict with freedom and dispute with endless pertinacity.
Here there is no contradiction (and Mr. Rye's accuracy is by no means equal
to his industry or to his love of antiquity), so it may be taken as
reasonably certain that the "Royal" is on the site of the "Angel," and that
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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