Through East Anglia in a Motor CarVincent, James Edmund
General
Through East Anglia in a Motor Car
Vincent, James Edmund
Norfolk (England) -- Description and travel; Suffolk (England) -- Description and travel
Dinner in the coffee-room at the "Maid's Head" was pleasant by virtue of
its surroundings, for the room has an air of antiquity, and its deep
fireplace charmed the eye, because the cookery was distinctly good, and the
attendance was quiet and prompt as that in a well-ordered private house.
The final bill next morning too, to introduce a most important
consideration at the earliest possible moment, was quite moderate--for
England. Dinner was the time also for gentle allusion to some of the famous
associations of the inn. The Pastons had used and commended it. That their
words of praise should be blazoned on the outer door seemed right and
proper; but it was a pity to have placed near them the raptures of modern
and not very prominent newspapers. Sitting in this same inn on the morning
of his last fight with Kett and his rebels, Warwick had breakfasted, and
had then led his men, who were camped on the market-place, to victory.
Here, in the time of the rebellion, the Royalists resorted, says Mr. Rye,
and it is certain that Dame Paston's horses were seized here; but it is to
be feared that mine host of the time had but a scantily-filled till, for
Royalists were scarce in the eastern counties. Freemasons held their
lodges in the "Maid's Head" so early as 1724, and it is stated that on one
occasion a Mrs. Beatson hid behind the wainscot of the lodge-room and heard
all the mysteries. Whether such there be, myself innocent of masonry but
closely attached to friends who would certainly have advised me to take
steps to enter the brotherhood if it were likely to be to my advantage, I
have often doubted and still doubt.
My pleasure was decidedly enhanced by the fact that I knew these things in
advance, and perhaps a little increased by being able to mention them. It
was a pride to be able to say that the house was built on the site of an
ancient palace of the bishops of Norwich; that it stood on Gothic arches;
that the assembly room had a minstrel's gallery; that a carving in the
smoking-room represented a fish, possibly a ray, and that, if so, it
probably accounted for the title of the house; for the house was once
undoubtedly called either the "Myrtle Fish" or the "Molde Fish"--readings
vary--and, if either of them be a ray, a difficulty vanishes, for the
sea-fishermen of Norfolk call, or called, the ray "old maid." Certainly the
house did not take its new title on the occasion of Queen Elizabeth's
visit, for it was the "Mayde's Hedde" in 1472, and it is mentioned in a
curious petition to Wolsey, unearthed by Mr. Rye. Bless him again for
having bought and saved the inn!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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