Through East Anglia in a Motor CarVincent, James Edmund
General
Through East Anglia in a Motor Car
Vincent, James Edmund
Norfolk (England) -- Description and travel; Suffolk (England) -- Description and travel
After dinner, and the necessary interval for rest and burnt sacrifice, two
facts became manifest. It was a glorious moonlight night, mild for the time
of year, and through all the long day we had hardly walked so many yards as
we had traversed miles. So we started forth, and soon came to the firm
conclusion that the "pale moonlight" is every whit as conducive to a
soul-satisfying view of Norwich Cathedral as of "fair Melrose." Our first
view of the west end, after passing under the great archway giving on
Tombland, pleased not a little; but we had read something of the glories of
the cathedral, of the apse and the apsidal chapels, of Jesus and St. Luke,
abutting on the apse at either side of the east end, and the desire to see
them was strong. It was not, however, very easily satisfied; for Norwich
Cathedral, like far too many of the stateliest and best-proportioned
edifices in our congested islands, is so hedged around with houses that it
is difficult to look upon it as a whole from a sufficient distance. They
are interesting houses in their way, venerable some of them, suggestive of
peaceful lives spent in scholarly research; but they exasperate by impeding
the view, and exasperations provoke memories of Trollope's studies of
cathedral society, studies suggesting that its tone is not invariably
peaceful nor high-minded; that petty jealousies and scandal can invade the
most outwardly tranquil precincts and closes. Nay, more, we all know--there
is no direct reference here to Norwich, and I cannot remember to have met
or to have heard any evil of any inhabitant, male or female, of its
ecclesiastical dwellings--that of some cathedral society Trollope's studies
are still essentially true. On this occasion it is the plain and
unvarnished truth that the houses blocked the view, and this not too kindly
thought came to mind. The chances are that it would not have thrust itself
forward if the houses had not done likewise; and that, in point of
narrowness of view or breadth of it, nothing distinguishes dwellers in
deaneries and canons' houses, huddled round the walls of a cathedral, from
those in others which, having been placed at a respectful distance, allow
the outline of the majestic structure to be seen in its pure beauty. At
Norwich, too, there is more excuse for the huddling than in many a
cathedral city, for space was valuable in Norwich from very early times.
Citizens who taxed themselves, as those of Norwich did, to protect their
city by walls, were not likely to encourage open spaces, "lungs," as it is
the fashion to call them now, within the walled space, and the crowding of
the precincts of the cathedral by buildings mean and insignificant compared
to it--the reference is to inhabited houses only--is explained by the same
cause as the narrow streets of the city itself, streets wherein the
tramcars render life full of peril.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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