Through England on a side saddle in the time of William and MaryFiennes, Celia
History
Through England on a side saddle in the time of William and Mary
Fiennes, Celia
England -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800
Barnes—some have them daub’d w^{th} mud-wall—others drye walls.
Carlisle stands in view at Least 4 mile distant, y^e town is walled in
and all built of stone. The Cathedrall stands high and very Eminent to
be seen above y^e town. You Enter over the Bridge and Double gates
w^{ch} are jron grates and Lined w^{th} a Case of doores of thick
timber, there are 3 gates to the town, one Called the English gate at
which I entred. The other the jrish w^{ch} Leads on to Whitehaven and
Cockermouth, the other y^e Scottish gate through which I went into
Scotland. The walls of the town and Battlements and towers are in very
good Repaire and Looks well. Y^e Cathedrall all built of stone which
Looked stately but nothing Curious; there was some few houses as y^e
Deans and treasurer and some of y^e Doctors houses walled in with Little
gardens, their fronts Looked Gracefully; Else I saw no house Except the
present Majors house of brick and stone, and one house which was y^e
Chancellors built of stone very Lofty, 5 good sarshe windows in y^e
front, and this within a Stone wall’d Garden well kept, and Iron gates
to discover it to view with stone Pillars. Ye streetes are very broad
and handsome well Pitched.
I walked round the walls and saw the River w^{ch} twists and turns
itself round the grounds, Called the Emount, w^{ch} at 3 or 4 miles off
is flow’d by the sea. The other River is the Essex w^{ch} is very broad
and Ebbs and flows about a mile or two off. There Remaines only some of
the walls and ruines of y^e Castle, w^{ch} does shew it to have been a
very strong town formerly. The walls are of a prodigious thickness and
vast great stones, its moated round and with draw bridges. There is a
Large Market place w^{th} a good Cross and hall, and is well supply’d as
I am Inform’d w^{th} provision at Easye rate, but my Landlady
notwithstanding ran me up the Largest Reckoning for allmost nothing, it
was y^e dearest Lodging I met with and she pretended she Could get me
nothing else; so for 2 joynts of mutton and a pinte of wine and bread
and beer I had a 12 shilling Reckoning, but since I find tho’ I was in
the biggest house in town I was in the worst accomodation, and so found
it, and a young giddy Landlady y^t Could only Dress fine and Entertain
the soldiers. From hence I tooke a guide the next day and so went for
Scotland and Rode 3 or 4 mile by y^e side of this River Emount w^{ch} is
full of very good ffish. I Rode sometymes on a high Ridge over a hill,
sometymes on the sands, it turning and winding about that I went almost
all the way by it and saw them with boates fishing for Salmon and
troute, w^{ch} made my journey very pleasant. Leaving this River I Came
to the Essex w^{ch} is very broad and hazardous to Crosse Even when the
tyde is out, by which it leaves a broad sand on Each side, which in some
places is unsafe, made me take a good guide which Carry’d me aboute and
a Crosse some part of it here, and some part in another place, it being
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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