Through England on a side saddle in the time of William and MaryFiennes, Celia
History
Through England on a side saddle in the time of William and Mary
Fiennes, Celia
England -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800
Deep in y^e Channell where I did Crosse w^{ch} was in sight of y^e mouth
of the river that runs into the sea. On the sand before the water was
quite gone from it I saw a great bird w^{ch} Look’d almost black picking
up ffish and busking in the water, it Looked like an Eagle and by its
dimentions Could scarce be any other bird. Thence I went into Scotland
over the river Serke which is also flowed by y^e sea, but in the Summer
tyme is not soe deep but Can be pass’d over—tho’ pretty deep but narrow.
It affords good ffish, but all here about w^{ch} are Called borderers
seem to be very poor people w^{ch} I impute to their sloth. Scotland
this part of it is a Low Marshy ground where they Cutt turff and peate
for the fewell, tho’ I should apprehend y^e sea might Convey Coales to
them. I see Little that they are Employ’d besides ffishing w^{ch} makes
provision plentifull or Else their Cutting and Carving turff and peate,
w^{ch} the women and great Girles bare legged does Lead a horse w^{ch}
draws a sort of carriage, the Wheeles like a Dung-pott and hold about 4
wheele barrows. These people tho’ with naked Leggs are yet wrapp’d up in
plodds, a piece of woollen Like a Blanket, or Else Rideing hoods—and
this when they are in their houses. I tooke them for people w^{ch} were
sick, seeing 2 or 3 great wenches as tall and bigg as any woman sat
hovering between their bed and Chimney corner, all jdle doing nothing or
at Least was not settled to any work tho’ it was nine of the Clock when
I Came thither, haveing gone 7 long miles that morning. This is a Little
Market town Called Adison Bank the houses Look just Like the booths at a
fair, I am sure j have been in some of them that were tollerable
dwellings to these, they have no Chimneys, their smoke Comes out all
over the house and there are great holes in y^e sides of their houses
w^{ch} Letts out the smoake when they have been well smoaked in it.
There is no Roome in their houses but is up to y^e thatch and in which
are 2 or 3 beds, Even to their parlours and buttery, and notwithstanding
y^e Cleaning of their parlour for me I was not able to beare the roome;
the smell of the hay was a perfume and what I Rather Chose to stay and
see my horses Eate their provender in the stable than to stand in y^t
roome for I Could not bring my self to sit down. My Landlady offered me
a good dish of ffish and brought me butter in a Lairdly Dish with the
Clap bread, but I Could have no stomach to Eate any of the ffood they
should order, and finding they had noe wheaten bread I told her I Could
not Eate their Clapt out bread, soe I bought the ffish she got for me
w^{ch} was full Cheape Enough, nine pence for two pieces of Salmon halfe
a one neer a yard Long, and a very Large trout of an amber Coullour, soe
drinking w^{th} out Eateing some of their wine w^{ch} was Exceeding good
Claret w^{ch} they stand Conveniently for to have from France, and
Indeed it was the best and truest Ffrench wine I have dranck this seven
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