Through England on a side saddle in the time of William and MaryFiennes, Celia
History
Through England on a side saddle in the time of William and Mary
Fiennes, Celia
England -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800
yeare before to Drink the spaw, and from thence I went to Harragate over
Knarsbrough fforest to Leeds 12 mile, and I went by Harwood Castle—the
ruined walls some remaines. It was much in Lanes and uphills and Down
hills, some Little part was open Common; on the Hill that Leads down to
the town gives a pleaseing prospect of it. Leeds is a Large town,
severall Large streetes, Cleane and well pitch’d and good houses all
built of stone. Some have good Gardens and Steps up to their houses and
walls before them. This is Esteemed the Wealthyest town of its bigness
in the Country its manufacture is y^e woollen Cloth—the Yorkshire Cloth
in w^{ch} they are all Employ’d and are Esteemed very Rich and very
proud. They have provision soe plentiful y^t they may Live w^{th} very
Little Expense and get much variety; here if one Calls for a tankard of
Ale w^{ch} is allwayes a groate its the only dear thing all over
Yorkshire, their ale is very strong, but for paying this Groat for
yo^{ur} ale you may have a slice of meate Either hott or Cold according
to the tyme of day you Call, or Else butter and Cheese Gratis into the
bargaine; this was a Generall Custom in most parts of Yorkshire but now
they have almost Changed it, and tho’ they still retaine the great price
for the ale, yet Make strangers pay for their meate, and at some places
at great rates, notwithstanding how Cheape they have all their
provision. There is still this Custome on a Market day at Leeds, the
sign of ye bush just by the Bridge, any body y^t will goe and Call for
one tanchard of ale and a pinte of wine and pay for these only shall be
set to a table to Eate w^{th} 2 or 3 dishes of good meate and a dish of
sweetmeates after. Had I known this and y^e Day w^{ch} was their Market
I would have Come then but I happened to Come a day after y^e market,
however I did only pay for 3 tankards of ale and w^t I Eate, and my
servants was gratis. This town is full of discenters, there are 2 Large
meeting places, here is also a good schoole for young Gentlewomen; the
streetes are very broad, the Market Large. Thence I went to Eland 12
long mile more pretty much steep, up hills and down the same. I crossed
over a River at Leeds on a Large stone bridge; y^e Country is much on
Enclosures, good ground.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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