Through Five Republics on Horseback, Being an Account of Many Wanderings in South AmericaRay, George Whitfield
Religion
Through Five Republics on Horseback, Being an Account of Many Wanderings in South America
Ray, George Whitfield
Ray, George Whitfield, 1868- -- Travel -- South America; South America -- Description and travel
"Oh, heavy lies the weight of ill on many hearts, And comforters are
needed sore of Christlike touch."
In this village I made inquiries for another servant and guide, and was
directed to "Timoteo, the very man." Liking his looks, and being able
to come to satisfactory terms, I engaged him as my second helper.
Timoteo had a sister called Salvadora (Saviour). She pounded corn in a
mortar with a hardwood pestle, and made me another baking of chipá,
with which we further burdened the pack-horse, and away we started
again, with affectionate farewells and tears, towards the unknown.
Next day we were joined by a traveller who was escaping to the
interior. He plainly declared himself as a murderer, and told us he had
shot one of the doctors in Asuncion. Through being well connected, he
had, after three weeks' detention in prison, been liberated, as he
boasted to us, _con todo buen nombre y fama (with good name and
report). The relatives of the murdered man, however, did not agree with
this verdict, and sought his life. During the day we shot an iguana,
and after a meal from its fat tail our new acquaintance, finding the
pace too slow for his hasty flight, left us, and I was not sorry. We
met a string of bullock carts, each drawn by six animals and having a
spare one behind. The lumbering wagons were on their way from the
Paraguayan máté fields, and had a load of over two thousand pounds
each. Jolting over huge tree-trunks, or anon sinking in a swamp,
followed by swarms of gad-flies, the patient animals wended their way.
Here and there one may see by the roadside a large wooden cross, with a
rudely carved wooden rooster on the top, while below it are the nails,
scourge, hammer, pincers and spear of gruesome crucifixion memory. At
other places there are smaller shrines with a statuette of the Virgin
inside, and candles invariably burning, provided by the generous
wayfarers. It is interesting to note that the old Indians had, at the
advent of the Spaniards, cairns of stones along their paths, and the
pious Indian would contribute a stone when he passed as an offering to
Pachacamac, who would keep away the evil spirits. That custom is still
kept up by the Christian (?) Paraguayan, with the difference that _now_
it is given to the Virgin. My guide would get down from his horse when
we arrived at these altars, and contribute a stone to the ever-growing
heap. If a specially bright one is offered, he told me it was more
gratifying to the goddess. Feeling that we were very likely to meet
with many _evil spirits_, Timoteo carefully sought for bright stones.
The people are _very_ religious, yet with it all are terribly depraved!
The truth is seldom spoken, and my guide was, unfortunately, no
exception to the rule. As we left the haunts of men, and difficulties
thickened, he would often entreat the help of Holy Mary, but in the
same breath would lie and curse!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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