Through lands that were dark: Being a record of a year's missionary journey in Africa and MadagascarHawkins, F. H.
Religion
Through lands that were dark: Being a record of a year's missionary journey in Africa and Madagascar
Hawkins, F. H.
London Missionary Society -- History; Missions -- Madagascar; Missions -- South Africa; Missions -- Zambia
We were almost wholly dependent upon native carriers. With the
exception of bicycles and single-wheeled bush-cars there is no wheeled
traffic in Northern Rhodesia. There are practically no roads in our
meaning of that term. The travel-routes are native paths--often very
narrow and overgrown. In the long grass, which is a remarkable feature
of the country, the path often cannot be seen, but can only be felt by
the feet. There are no inns or rest-houses. Tents, bedding, cooking
utensils, food, etc., must all be carried everywhere. The minimum
number of carriers required by one person on a short journey is about
twelve if a bicycle is used, or eighteen to twenty if a machila is the
means of conveyance. A machila is a chair slung between two poles and
carried by four men. For longer journeys extra men are needed to carry
supplies, or in case of sickness among the carriers. Should native food
not be easily obtained--as at certain seasons is the case everywhere,
and along many of the main travel-routes, more or less constantly all
the year round--five more men are needed for each week that food has
to be carried. Carriers cost about 1s. 6d. per man per week away from
their homes. The general practice is to pay 1s. a week in cash on
discharge, and the balance in calico, cash, salt or food, weekly in
advance. The speed of travel is, of course, dependent on the ability
of the carriers, and the nature of the country traversed, but it may
be taken as about seventeen or eighteen miles a day, or three miles
an hour, including rests. Sometimes over thirty miles is accomplished
with loads, or even more with a letter only. Our average day’s travel
from Ndola to Mbereshi was just under twenty miles, but on two days we
covered over thirty miles.
Our experience of Central African travel was a delightful one. We left
the rail a week or two before the rainy season comes to an end in most
years, and we had been warned that we should probably meet with a good
deal of rain on our way to Mbereshi. We only had two or three showers
the whole way, and with one trifling exception all these fell after we
were in camp. We tasted some of the joys of crossing Central African
swamps, but with the kindly assistance of our carriers, whose backs and
shoulders were always at our service, we were none the worse. Numerous
rivers and streams were crossed in dug-out canoes, on men’s backs and
shoulders, and by means of tree trunks, stones, or bridges made of the
branches of trees. The Luapula (Congo) was crossed in a steel boat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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