THROUGH PORTUGAL [Illustration: FROM A WINDOW, OPORTO.] THROUGH PORTUGAL BY MARTIN HUME WITH 32 ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY A. S. FORREST AND 8 REPRODUCTIONS OF PHOTOGRAPHS “_Oh Christ! it is a goodly sight to see What heaven hath done for this delicious land; What fruits of fragrance blush on every tree, What goodly prospects o’er the hills expand._” BYRON. NEW YORK M^cCLURE, PHILLIPS & COMPANY 1907 Printed by BALLANTYNE, HANSON & CO. Edinburgh _This record of a pleasure journey through Europe’s “Garden by the Sea” is dedicated by gracious permission to His Majesty The King of Portugal_ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CONTENTS CHAPTER I PAGE OPORTO 1 CHAPTER II BRAGA AND BOM JESUS 34 CHAPTER III CITANIA AND GUIMARÃES 54 CHAPTER IV BUSSACO 90 CHAPTER V COIMBRA, THOMAR, AND LEIRIA 122 CHAPTER VI BATALHA AND ALCOBAÇA 169 CHAPTER VII CINTRA 199 CHAPTER VIII LISBON 229 CHAPTER IX SETUBAL, TROYA, AND EVORA 264 CHAPTER X HINTS TO TRAVELLERS IN PORTUGAL 308 ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR FROM A WINDOW IN OPORTO _Frontispiece_ EVENING: OPPOSITE OPORTO _To face page_ 8 FROM THE RIBEIRA, OPORTO _To face page_ 16 A SHOP IN OLD OPORTO _To face page_ 28 THE AFTER-GLOW AT BRAGA _To face page_ 40 ON THE TERRACE, BOM JESUS _To face page_ 50