South America -- Description and travel; South America -- History
A short distance up the coast near Ecuador’s port of Guayaquil lies the
little town of Tumbéz, where Pizarro landed with his troop of two
hundred men and planted the banner of Castile in the Inca’s domain. One
of his first acts after establishing the power of Spain in the Inca
country was to found a new capital nearer the coast than Cuzco, where,
in the midst of the Andes, the Incas had for centuries had their seat of
government. He chose the site of a pre-Incaic oracle on the Rimac River
(the “river that speaks”) where the legendary predecessors of the Incas
came to make their vows. For nearly three hundred years this city, which
is now called Lima, but which he christened the City of the Kings,
enjoyed the distinction of being the “second metropolis” of the great
Spanish Empire on two continents and the center of a viceregal court,
the splendor of which rivaled that of royalty itself. Stately palaces
and churches were soon erected; wide avenues and beautiful plazas were
laid out and substantial walls constructed for defense, and here came in
the viceroy’s train the proudest nobility of Spain.
Lima is reached by both railroad and trolley line from Callao, and lies
on a broad, fertile plain on the left bank of the river. Fifty miles
back of the city the great chain of the Andes passes; but spurs from the
majestic range stretch down and enclose it as within an amphitheater.
Lima is only five hundred feet above sea-level, and in the summer season
unquestionably hot, although the cool breezes from the Pacific temper
the climate to a certain extent. In general appearance the early writers
likened it to Seville; to-day, as the capital of a progressive republic,
it has broadened out and become more active than its dreamy Andalusian
prototype. As in Santiago and the old parts of Buenos Aires, the
business and poorer residence streets generally are narrow and paved
with cobble-stones, and most of the buildings are two or three stories
high. In the better residence sections the visitor is agreeably
surprised to find the charm of other days still remaining in the massive
wooden street doors studded with brass, barred windows and Moorish
balconies, or _miradores_, of heavily carved mahogany, and beautiful
_patios_. The famous old Torre-Tagle mansion, where so many of the
viceroys lived, is still standing to perpetuate this interesting type,
as in the older tropical Spanish cities. _Portales_, or arcades, extend
along the sides of the plazas in front of the shops to afford shelter
from the sun.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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