South America -- Description and travel; South America -- History
Eastward, some sixty-five miles toward Cape Codera, and halfway the
length of the Silla range, the traveler sights the great peak of Picacho
rising from the water’s edge to a height of over seven thousand feet.
Along this promontory, on a narrow strip of beach, are scattered groups
of sixteenth century houses, white and red-topped for the most part;
some of them nestle inland in coves of the mountains or look over the
blue Caribbean from shelves of the cliffs above. This is La Guayra, the
seaport of the republic’s capital. High above, overhanging the business
center of the town, stands the ancient and picturesque Spanish fortress
of early colonial days, and just below, on another bench of rock, is the
old bull ring. Overlooking all, on a high bluff, are the ruins of the
old castle which was the residence of the Captain-General during the
Spanish régime. To those who have enjoyed Kingsley’s great historical
novel, “Westward Ho!” the old ruins will have a romantic interest, for
it was from the walls of this fortress-castle that Amyas Leigh escaped
after his vain attempt to rescue the Rose of Devon.
Baron von Humboldt said that there is but one place in the world that
can rival La Guayra in the splendor of its setting—Santa Cruz de
Teneriffe, which points one of the Canary Islands off the Moroccan
coast. La Guayra is now all business, but not business of the feverish,
bustling kind, as the visitor will find, after an entire morning spent
in passing from one leisurely official to another in the effort to enter
the country. The port usually serves the traveler merely as a landing
place on his way to Caracas. If for any reason, however, he should
prefer to delay his visit to the capital, he would do well to run up the
coast some three miles east of the port city, to the pleasant little
watering place, Macuto, the resort of the leisure class of the near-by
capital.
Caracas is but seven miles inland from the port as the crow flies, but
the actual distance by rail is twenty-two miles. The steep, winding road
was started by American enterprise, and at a cost of over $100,000 per
mile. It is now controlled by Englishmen, and so great is the traffic,
that the little line never fails to be busy. For two hours the train
zigzags up the perilous ascent to a height of three thousand feet before
it turns sharply around a dizzy precipice and enters the beautiful
valley of Caracas. Until this turn is made the traveler is rarely ever
shut off from the gorgeous blue of the Caribbean. So superb is the
constantly changing view, that he will feel more than repaid for the
sensations of giddiness that may assail him as the train swings around
the many curves on the route, and the yawning chasms overlooked from the
car windows are but added beauties to the scene, instead of death traps,
for so excellent is the construction and so efficient the management
that there has never been an accident along the entire length.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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