Through the Casentino with Hints for the TravellerEckenstein, Lina
History
Through the Casentino with Hints for the Traveller
Eckenstein, Lina
Casentino (Italy) -- Description and travel; Tuscany (Italy) -- Description and travel
The views from this ridge were extensive and varied. In the distance the
panorama of the hills was slowly unfolding. Nearer at hand our attention
was caught now by a peach-tree with its purple blossoms, then by a
cherry-tree, its downy white branches swaying with the breeze. We passed
several country-houses, always somewhat removed from the road and always
flanked by a group of dark cypresses, which sometimes extended into an
avenue down the slope of the hill. These old country-houses of Tuscany
consist of a dwelling-house and a farm, which sometimes stand a little
way apart, the dwelling-house marked by a look of greater trimness and
reserve; sometimes they are brought closer together with an increased
look of orderliness to the one and of homeliness to the other. Both
houses are built of stone,
[Illustration: CAMALDOLI (CASENTINO)]
usually two storeys high. And both are covered with red rough-tiled
roofs that lie flat and broad over the entire dwelling and project on
all sides into wide eaves.
We passed through Camprena, a _posto_ which also had its peculiarity.
The houses neither fronted the street nor stood at right angles to it, a
want of arrangement not accounted for by any apparent irregularity of
the ground. Such an Italian village has none of the neat clustering of
its English or German namesake. There is no village church standing
aloof to watch over the entrance and exit from life of suffering
humanity; no village green with ancient oak suggesting a living
protection to rights and liberties; no well-appointed inn betokening the
love of an evening’s good cheer. The houses have come together anyhow,
and few are the attempts made to brighten a portico or a window with a
row of flower-pots. Sometimes the house itself is washed over with pink
or yellow, but there is never a scrap of flower-garden to add a bright
spot of colour to its surroundings.
Further along the road lay Soci, a place which went through stormy
experiences in the early Middle Ages. Remains of its own castle walls
and remains of the castles of Gressa and Marciano, which frown from
heights above and beyond it, recall the times when might made havoc
with right. At one time the Prince Bishop of Arezzo owned the place and
made it over to the monks of Camaldoli. But, apparently on account of
its insecurity, they parted with it to one of the Counts Guidi in
exchange for rights of ownership at Bagno on the further side of the
Apennines. However, the Guidi did not long remain in possession of the
castle; they lost it to their enemies, the Tarlati of Pietramala.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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