Through the Casentino with Hints for the TravellerEckenstein, Lina
History
Through the Casentino with Hints for the Traveller
Eckenstein, Lina
Casentino (Italy) -- Description and travel; Tuscany (Italy) -- Description and travel
The paved path mostly followed the course of the Fosso of Camaldoli
which rises above the Eremo. Dante apparently looked upon this stream
not as a tributary of the Archiano, but as the Archiano itself, for he
lets Buonconte in Purgatory speak of the Archiano as “taking its rise
above the hermitage.” The river came down between moss-grown rocks,
carrying with it a stream of mountain fragrance, and the path which
followed it ended on a wide grass-grown space, at one end of which stood
the hermitage. And up here, in the midst of the forest, at an elevation
of 3700 feet above sea level, and in a climate which these thin-skinned
southerners talked of as cold and rough in the extreme, stood the
twenty-four little stone cells of the hermitage, each inside the walled
enclosure of its garden. Here in the depth of mountain solitude, cut off
from intercourse with the world, and restricted in their intercourse
with each other, the hermits of Camaldoli lived the same life of
seclusion and solitude which St Romuald considered the surest way of
attaining to happiness and heaven. Here they lived, dwelling alone,
eating alone and working alone, with the conceptions of time and space
obliterated as far as disregard of the ordinary interests of life will
obliterate them, with no hope or expectation of change, a life in which
time can mend and mar nothing.
We were told that all the cells were tenanted except the original cell
of St Romuald, which is always kept standing empty. All the cells are
constructed on the same plan. Each consists of a small house divided
into two rooms opening out of each other, with an additional recess in
which stands the bed. The windows and the door open on a small garden,
which is surrounded by walls so as to close in the view. Each hermit
attends to his own garden, in which he grows herbs and vegetables. The
cooking for the whole settlement is done in an outhouse, and the food is
brought round and handed in to each of the cells. Seven times in the
twenty-four hours the hermits wander forth and assemble in church to
pray together; otherwise they are alone.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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