Through the Casentino with Hints for the TravellerEckenstein, Lina
History
Through the Casentino with Hints for the Traveller
Eckenstein, Lina
Casentino (Italy) -- Description and travel; Tuscany (Italy) -- Description and travel
Badia a Prataglia lies at about an hour’s distance below the pass of the
driving road from the Casentino into Romagna. The place boasted of one
of the oldest abbacies in the Apennines, which dated its foundation
further back than St Romuald and Camaldoli. But in course of time the
abbacy of Prataglia lost its standing, while that of the monastery of
Camaldoli increased, with the result that the older abbey became a
dependency of the newer monastery. At present nothing remains of the old
settlement but the convent church. But Prataglia itself is a growing
place. Its numerous houses lie scattered in groups up and down the
valley, and there are several new villa residences belonging to families
who come up from Romagna and Tuscany to escape the heat of the summer. A
_pension_ situated some distance above the place on the hills is fast
becoming a favourite summer resort.
The Rossi at whose house we stayed are the originators and the owners of
a home industry which has considerably raised the standard of comfort
throughout the district. The firm exports simple wooden furniture, the
different parts of which are cut and carved to certain patterns in the
various homes and fitted together on the premises. That evening being
Saturday, men were coming to the house bringing their week’s work, in
exchange for which they carried away payment in money or payment in kind
from the store kept by the Rossi. We were shown examples of the articles
manufactured--chairs, stools, cradles and such like, all of the simplest
shape. Among other things, we were shown a spinning-wheel, but we were
told that the attempt to introduce it has failed. The Italian women
prefer spinning from the distaff, and it seems obvious that they will
continue to do so till the use of machines supersedes hand-labour.
Rain, wind, hail, a thunderstorm and a snowstorm, we experienced them
all in the one day which we spent exploring the heights of the
neighbouring pass. But with a good road within reach and food awaiting
one under cover, battling with the elements for a time adds to one’s
enjoyment. Then the reflection came that the snow prevented progress
along the mountain paths, and we determined to return into the valley.
We left Prataglia white in its wintry garb, and in the short space of an
afternoon we passed from the nipping blasts of winter into the bright
geniality of spring. Below Serravalle the falling snowflakes changed
into driving mists. As the mountains receded, the valley of the Arno lay
before us, its vineyards and cornfields brown and golden in the light of
the afternoon sun. We were bound for Poppi, which lies at about an
hour’s distance up the valley from Bibbiena--“Poppi, the capital of the
Casentino,” as Vasari called it.
VI
_Poppi and Counts Guidi_
“Pupium agri Clusentini caput.”
(_Vasari._)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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