Through the Casentino with Hints for the Traveller — John Shaqi
Through the Casentino with Hints for the TravellerEckenstein, Lina
History
Through the Casentino with Hints for the Traveller
Eckenstein, Lina
Casentino (Italy) -- Description and travel; Tuscany (Italy) -- Description and travel
On such a day selling extended down the side streets. And the vendor of
cheap literature was seen suspending tracts and booklets in rows by
means of bits of string, while the hawker of cheap jewellery took
advantage of a projecting window-ledge to set out his little trays. The
display of outlandish wares invariably causes one’s money to burn, and
one of us was tempted to buy a silver finger-ring with a crucified
Christ--a pattern peculiar to Tuscany, I believe--while the other, from
a mass of twopenny romances and stories of the saints, picked out the
romance of Pia dei Tolomei, the story of a faithful wife’s cruel
treatment and violent death. This was she, unforgotten in popular
literature as it seemed, who started up before Dante in Purgatory and
prayed him to recall her memory on earth.
But it was at night, when the dark of the evening filled the streets
with gloom, when the last carts had rattled down the steep streets and
were speeding away along the white country roads in the darkness, when
men passed along the walls like shadows, and silence had laid her hold
on the concerns of this world, that fancy began to stir and breathe more
freely, and stepped forth to take her pleasure with the figures of the
past.
One evening I had stayed in the Franciscan church looking at the
altar-pieces of the Della Robbias, the Nativity and the Deposition--the
latter a gift to the church from Cardinal Bibbiena--till the twilight
drove me out and I went to walk on the terrace of the town, which
commanded a view of the panorama of the hills. There had been a
thunderstorm, and heavy rain-clouds hung over the Apennines. Their
lower slopes were shrouded in mist, but spanned from side to side by a
rainbow. Towards the south the skyline above the valley of the Arno was
piled with masses upon masses of clouds. Further yet, towards the west,
the sun had just set behind a rocky height, but its reflection was
caught by the white vapour that filled the undulating plain and extended
upwards into the numerous branching valleys beneath the snow-capped
heights of the Pratomagno, revealing line upon line of rocky crag and
sloping hillside. It was a sight that stirred emotion and roused the
imagination. And wandering back through the dark, solitary streets, I
seemed to see some of the figures of the shadowy past, whose mortal
remains long ago had fallen to dust and decay, nay, for aught we knew,
had gone to build up new forms of life again and again under the
transforming agency of time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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