Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
A very beautiful old man, with a kindly, benevolent face, tall and
stately in his black robes and high velvet hat. His long grey hair
flowed over his shoulders, and he fingered a string of amber beads as he
came along. The pandur bared his head, dropped on one knee reverently
and kissed the hand extended to him, and I wondered miserably whether it
would be foolish or polite to follow his example. The Archimandrite
relieved me at once by shaking hands with me and welcoming me to
Studenitza. Anyone who had come so far, he said, must be his guest. It
would have been grossly rude to refuse such a kindly-meant invitation,
but I accepted it with fear. To the manners and customs of a Servian inn
I was now accustomed. The primitive building outside the monastery walls
suddenly seemed to me to be a homelike and wholly desirable
resting-place, and the monastery was a strange unknown world. The
pandur, on the other hand, was filled with joy. "This is very, very
good," he whispered to me; "they are very rich here"; and we followed
the Archimandrite over the lawn to the long low guest building on the
other side, up a wooden staircase and along a long blue-and-white
corridor, to a room at the end which he offered me. It was a beautiful
room, luxuriously furnished. I accepted it gratefully, and the pandur
whispered his admiration and enthusiasm. He was sent off at once to
fetch my bag from the inn, and the Archimandrite, who was greatly
overcome at learning that I had come on horseback from Ivanitza, begged
that I would rest myself. To-morrow, he said, I should see all, and was
at liberty to draw what I pleased. At what time would I have supper? He
added with a little smile, "I fear that to-day I cannot feed you well.
We are monks here, and it is one of our great fasts." (It was that of
SS. Peter and Paul.) He knew no word of any language but Servian, and
waited patiently while I looked up words in the dictionary. I told him I
would eat whatever they had. "But no," he said, and he shook his head;
"those of our own Church do not keep these fasts as they should. For us
monks it is our duty; but for you, who are a stranger, it is different."
His words I can give, but not the charm of his manner, nor his simple
dignity and his courtesy. His amber beads clicked as he went.
And when he had gone there was a great silence, and I sat at the window
and stared at the little white church and at the mountain that rose up
just behind it. The world beyond was a vague, far-off recollection; part
of a previous existence. I felt that I had passed all my life in that
lonely hollow among the hills, and then wondered whether I had any right
to be there at all. But I did not wish to ever forget the scene, and in
spite of the old man's recommendation to sleep, I coiled up on the
window-sill and began a drawing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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