Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
Time passed like a flash, and the light was rapidly dying, when I became
aware of the clink of spurs and the clicking of the amber beads, and the
Archimandrite followed by a servant and my pandur, bearing lamp and
supper, came in a little procession down the corridor. I had not
realised till then that I was to sup with the Archimandrite himself. He
was distressed that I remained standing, and spoke to the pandur, who
hurried away, and returned with a big and throne-like arm-chair.
Meanwhile Nikola the servant spread two newspapers on the table, put the
lamp in the middle and arranged the plates and dishes. Then he placed a
small cane-bottomed chair and stood attention by it. My pandur drew
himself up by the arm-chair, the Archimandrite motioned me to it
ceremoniously, murmured a blessing, and took his seat. He tucked his
large table napkin under his chin, spread the other end of it on the
table and stood his plate upon it, thus making a bridge from food to
mouth. Foolishly, I did not imitate him, but put mine on my knees. Now
the tablecloth was a product of Western civilisation, of that make
called "tapestry" in Tottenham Court Road. It was black-and-yellow, and
round the border were pyramids, palm trees, camels, Arabs and damsels--a
very secular tablecloth. It was greatly treasured by the old man, and
the centre only was protected by newspaper. He was distressed to see
that I did not know how to use a table napkin, but he was far too polite
to say so. He murmured something to Nikola, and before I had realised
the mistake I had made, Nikola returned with another newspaper, which he
put under my plate. Then the meal began. "Nikola, serve rakija," said
the Archimandrite, and Nikola filled two little glasses with slivovitz
and put them before us. "This," said the Archimandrite, "is from our own
plums," and he raised his glass and bowed gravely; I raised mine; he
clinked with it. "God give you health," he said, and drained his glass.
I drained mine, and restrained a violent desire to gasp as the spirit
went down like a red-hot poker, for it was the fieriest liqueur I had
ever met. "Nikola, serve the rakija," said the Archimandrite again, and
we repeated the ceremony. I left some at the bottom of my glass. He
pointed this out, and waited patiently. I swallowed it. "Nikola, serve
the rakija," said the Archimandrite a third time. "No, thank you," said
I timidly. "Three times is Servian," he said pleasantly. My glass was
filled. "God give you health," said I bravely; we clinked, and the
ceremony was completed.
With a burning gullet, I began dinner. There was no sign of anything
else to drink. Bread, cheese, kaimak, onions and poached eggs were
spread before me, and a dish of haricot beans and a lettuce before him.
"You had better see what I eat," he said, with a funny little smile;
"your friends in England will wish to know how an Archimandrite in
Servia lives."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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