Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
I had my dictionary and struggled hard to follow his conversation and to
reply, but was sometimes entirely lost, for the strain after the long
day was almost more than I could stand. A very great many English, he
told me, had been to Studenitza. I was surprised. He counted upon his
fingers, and said that since 1865, including myself, there had been
eight. "Yes," he said gaily, "here we know the English very well, and
your Church is not unlike our own," Feeling quite unequal to discussing
theology in Servian, I did not rise to this remark. "At any rate," he
said cheerfully, "we both dislike the Pope." "How old are you?" asked
the Archimandrite. I told him. "And you are not married?" he said. I
agreed. "That, Gospoditza," and he bowed to me, "is very good--it is
the best"; and the pandur smiled a little smile under his moustache.
Nikola removed our plates, and appeared with three small trout on a
dish. Very excellent trout, fresh from the river, which the
Archimandrite shared with me with great relish. But he seemed anxious
and had little private housekeeping whispers with Nikola, and produced
large keys furtively from his flowing garments. The good man was certain
I had not had enough. I assured him I had had plenty; but Nikola
returned presently with a small mutton ham, off which he chipped pieces
which he offered me. Meanwhile my pandur had removed my knife, fork, and
plate. The Archimandrite remedied this by taking his own fork, wiping it
on the newspaper and presenting it to me ceremoniously. I accepted it in
the spirit in which it was offered and ate as many of the little pieces
of meat as I could manage, thereby pleasing my host a good deal more
than myself, and the meal was concluded.
It was a dry meal. We now began to wash it down. "Nikola, serve the
wine," said his master. Nikola appeared with a bottle of red wine and
two small tumblers. The Archimandrite uttered pious wishes for my
welfare, we clinked and drank together. I perceived very shortly that
politeness did not permit him to take more while there was any left in
my glass, and hoped that he was not very thirsty. He, on his part, tried
to encourage me by saying that it was excellent wine and not at all
strong, and the latter part of the remark fortunately was perfectly
true.
When I thought we had nearly done, Nikola again went on a mysterious
errand, and returned with two young monks to whom I was introduced. The
two younger men were more interested in the outer world than the old
one, and I had to work the dictionary hard. Then came more wine,
fortunately not much, for we all four had to clink with each other and
utter polite wishes, and this occupied time and made a little go a long
way. Obedient to the Archimandrite, we raised and emptied our glasses
simultaneously with military precision.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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