Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
windows, one only is intact; the others have been adequately restored.
The present dome, a recent and very poor attempt in plaster, is to be
shortly replaced. Again the old man bewailed the destruction wrought by
the Turks. "And it is your own country that has helped them," he said
sadly, and shook his head.
He showed me the treasures of the church, the shrine of St. Simeone
(King Stefan Nemanja) and the great silver casket, adorned with reliefs
of scenes from the saints life, presented by Alexander Karageorgevich,
in which to worthily preserve the sacred relics. He called the pandur to
assist him, and together the young soldier and the Archimandrite
unfolded with exceeding care the splendid crimson velvet covering for
it, a gift from the then reigning king (Alexander Obrenovich), destined
to cover the shrine on the saint's day. The Archimandrite looked at it
lovingly, the pandur with awe and amazement, and then they tenderly put
it away again, while I wondered over the much detested king who had
presented it, and the king who had died seven hundred years ago and had
wrought so well for his land that he is yet revered in it as a saint. In
spite of time and the Turks, the Imperial monastery still preserves many
of its old treasures, church vessels and vestments. A magnificent
crimson-and-gold one, the Archimandrite told me, undoubtedly belonged to
St. Sava, and it may have done so; but a gilt censer, also said to be
the saint's, one of the church's precious relics which he looked on with
believing eyes, betrays both by design and workmanship that it is of a
later date. There was a very old reliquary, also the property of St.
Sava, and there were three or four old manuscript books, and all he
handled with a simple pride that was pretty to see. The last cupboard
that he unlocked was perhaps the most interesting of all to me, for it
contained a mass of votive offerings, most of them personal ornaments,
splendid specimens of Turkish, Albanian, Bosnian, and Herzegovinian
work, things barbaric and beautiful, choice examples of the finest
native work, some of it undoubtedly very old. The last of the treasures
was locked up again, and we left the treasury.
[ILLUSTRATION: CHURCH, STUDENITZA, WEST DOOR.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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