Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
Then the pandur and the Archimandrite had a little discussion, and the
kind old man told me that the ride to Rashka was a long one, that I had
better stay until to-morrow, then I should have time to draw the church
and to rest. I was his guest, and he begged I would stay. The church
should be left open, and I might draw what I pleased. I accepted the
more gratefully as the sky threatened rain and it was damp and cold. He
instructed the pandur to bring a table and chair into the church, and
then I was left to my own devices. The time flew, and when I heard the
clink of spurs on the marble floor, and the pandur saluting said, "Are
you hungry?" I merely said "No," and went on. When, however, he
reappeared in about twenty minutes and repeated his inquiry with an
anxious face, I looked at my watch, realised I had been working for four
hours, and hastily followed him to the corridor, where the poor
Archimandrite was pacing up and down by the table, evidently wanting his
dinner badly, and much relieved by my appearance. The forms observed
were much the same as on the previous evening, and he talked of the sad
state of "our people" in Macedonia and Old Servia, and lamented that
the quarrels of great nations should cause the suffering of little ones.
"Between your country and Russia we can do nothing. You keep the Turk in
Europe." A portrait of Peter the Great hung on the wall. Here, as
everywhere else in Servia, I found Russia the Serbs' only hope of
salvation.
I spent the afternoon drawing the monastery buildings. It was very
still, and the plash of the tiny fountain and the clink of the pandur's
spurs as he hovered about me were the only sounds. The air was heavy
with lime blossom; now and then a long-haired, black-robed monk glided
silently by, and it was all unreal and dream-like. As evening drew on I
heard the clicking of the amber beads, and the Archimandrite appeared.
"You are always doing something," he said; "you have no rest. They say
all the English are like that"; and he instructed Nikola to bring me a
glass of slivovitz and a plateful of jam.
Nor did his kindness and courtesy ever cease, and his stately black
figure bowing farewell was the last I saw of him as I passed through the
monastery gates in the early morning and rode out into the world again
with my escort.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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