Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
We arrived at 7.30. I was so glad to see anything with a roof on that I
did not even shudder at the sight of it. It was a shanty of loose
stones. The family's room was reached by a wooden ladder, the cattle
shed was below it. "Mother" came out to greet us, and was at first
struck speechless by the sight of me. She reminded Boshko that they had
no beds, to which he replied airily that it was of no consequence. I
went up the ladder into pitch darkness. Someone lit a pine splinter in
the ashes of the fire and dragged up the only chair. This serves as a
sort of throne for the head of the family. It is large with widespread
arms, and has legs not more than three or four inches high, to suit the
comfort of gentlemen used to sitting cross-legged on the ground.
"Mother" most kindly took my boots off and set a huge wooden bowl of
fresh milk on my knees. People came out of dark corners, blew up the
fire, slung the caldron over it, threw on logs, and as many flocked in
to see me as the place would hold. It was a narrow slip of a room, about
twelve feet by six, with the hearthstone at one end of it, and a barrel
that served as larder. The smoke surged round the room. Father, mother,
brother, brothers-in-law, sisters, sisters-in-law, uncles, and friends
all shook hands with me and bade me welcome. They were all bare-legged,
and their clothes were dropping off them in rags. I was vaguely
conscious of a mass of faces haloed in wood smoke; several huge warriors
towered up to the roof; a very courteous and aged veteran, to whom the
chair probably belonged, was smoking his chibouk by my side, then I
nodded forward and should have been asleep in a minute, but they woke me
by laughing. Not only had they the excitement of seeing me, but we had
brought the latest news of the death of the King of Servia, and the
conversation was lively as they supped. Here as elsewhere, they said
the deed was "strashno" (horrible), but that it was a good thing he was
dead. But in most instances the extreme loyalty of the Montenegrins for
their own Prince caused them to express disgust for the officers who
betrayed their King while "still eating his bread."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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