Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
Supper over, we went into the next room and went to bed. They gave me a
large wooden bench against the wall. I put my cloak under me and my
waterproof over me, and a man took off his strukka, folded it, and put
it under my head. They swept the floor, spread sheets of thick felt,
stripped the children and rolled them in pieces of blanket, took the
cartridges out of their various weapons; I heard a murmured prayer, they
lay down in rows on the floor, and the whole twelve of us were very soon
asleep. I don't think I stirred till I was wakened by the family getting
up, and found the owner of the strukka waiting to take it from under my
head. I woke to a horrified consciousness that I had not wound up my
watch. But it was still ticking, and said 3.30 a.m. I slept sweetly till
six, then washed my hands and face in the stream in Montenegrin style,
and returned to have breakfast with Boshko, who, in elegant
_déshabille_, was loading his revolver on the doorstep. His mother had
captured and washed his only shirt and was now drying it at the fire, so
that the upper part of his person was in a very airy condition. We
breakfasted amicably out of the same bowl, and "Mother" boiled me a
glassful of sugar and milk so sweet that I could hardly swallow it. But
I had to, for it was meant for a great treat. Boshko was so pleased with
his home comforts that he proposed we should stay "kod nas" for several
days, and I had some difficulty in tearing him away.
It was half-past seven before he got into his shirt and saddled the
pony. "Mother" kissed me when I left, and refused at first to take any
payment, as she said I was a friend of Boshko. Poor thing, she had done
all she could for me, and had even given me the last of their precious
sugar. When the money was really in her hand, her joy was great, and she
thanked me over and over again. We started in pouring rain. "You had
better not mount," said Boshko cheerfully, and made straight for what
looked like an inaccessible cliff. The path was the worst I have ever
tried. We crawled up an awful zigzag. It was as much as he could do to
urge the pony up it; twice it was near rolling over, for the streaming
rain made the foothold precarious. Then I slipped over the edge, and
Boshko was badly scared, but when I stuck on a bush and crawled up
again, he proposed that we should add four hours to our journey by going
to see a very beautiful lake which he vaguely said was "over there." I
refused; we scrambled up about 1000 feet, and found ourselves safely on
the top. We were soon over the pass and descending the other side into a
magnificent wooded valley through dripping grass. The pony sat down and
slid, and at the bottom we struck the proper track again. Boshko took
stock of the heavens, foretold speedy sunshine, and suggested taking
shelter meanwhile at the nearest house. He was a casual young thing,
with no idea of either time or distance, and loved exhibiting me.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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