Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
The Montenegrin flora, which includes many plants peculiar to the
district, had never been completely worked before, and beyond the
frontier was quite unknown to science. He was wild to plant-hunt there,
but his encounter with the Kaimmakam had been so unpleasant that he had
reluctantly given up all hopes of doing so for the present. The
Kaimmakam, he said, and the Voyvode were friendly enough a short time
back, but the political situation was just then strained, and I had been
lucky to escape an interview.
Everyone wanted to know how I had fared, and I was asked round to the
Voyvode's house. The baker's lady took me. We went up an outside
staircase into a tiny room with a hearthstone and an iron pot in it, and
from this into another room, where the Voyvode's lady welcomed me
cordially. Her daughter-in-law and her son came in, followed by the
Voyvode and his secretary, the kapetan. It was a tiny whitewashed room
with a bare wooden floor, a table, three wooden chairs, and a
bench--quite devoid of all the comforts of an English labourer's
cottage; and portraits of Prince Nikola and the Russian and Italian
Royal Families were the only exceptions to its Spartan simplicity.
Hospitality was the order of the day. Rakija was produced, a plate of
cheese and another of little lumps of ham, and a fork. All clinked
glasses, took it in turns to eat little bits of ham off the fork, and
were very festive. I have seldom met more charming people. The Voyvode
was loud in his contempt for Boshko, and vexed that I should have had to
pay a second man. This sealed Boshko's fate. He was, though
well-meaning, quite incompetent as a guide. I paid him off and dismissed
him. Alat had to go too, and the saddle, as Boshko dared not return
without them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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